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Hong Kong & Japan: A trip of firsts

12/4/2024

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We’ve traveled to nearly 50 countries together, and every trip just deepens our love for this — the endless discovery, the unexpected connections, the adventure of figuring out how to get from point A to B, the thrill of trying new things, and the joy of learning,  then immediately fumbling, a few phrases in a local language. Our love for travel has never waned and we’re beyond grateful for the chance to help others feel that same spark, passion, and excitement each time they step off a plane. 
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To celebrate Ryan’s birthday this year, we decided to head somewhere we’ve always dreamed of — Japan. Although this was definitely a trip to scratch our personal itch, our time in Japan was also packed with connecting, learning, and soaking up every bit of culture to create our next Cohica Designed Trip, which we will launch very soon, but for now, here’s a taste of what we experienced on our travels.

Hong Kong — A City of Contrasts

After a short connection in Amsterdam, we hopped on board a 12-hour flight to Hong Kong, the perfect city to explore and de-jetlag before Japan. Hot, humid, and buzzing with energy, this city has been on our list for a long time. From the shiny, modern skyscrapers of Hong Kong Island, to the organized chaos of the Kowloon markets selling snake meat and turtles just across Victoria Harbour, Hong Kong is a fascinating sensory overload. A complete cultural mish-mash from centuries as a trading and financial hub, it feels like a fusion of Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, and Vietnam, with distinct cultural elements everywhere you look.
There really are few things we love more than waking up somewhere completely foreign and new, and Hong Kong is no exception, offering a unique blend of modern and traditional cultures, reshaped by years of international influence. We're here for all of it — the hustle and bustle, the contrasts, and yes, even the moments of discomfort. Packing a hefty amount of sightseeing into just a few days, we sweat through the humid air and nurse cold boba teas as we walked for miles, hopping on and off the ferry and seeking out the city's best veggie dim sum. It's an action-packed experience and a clear reminder of how much we love (and could easily spend more time in) Asia.

Tokyo, Japan - First Impressions

Following a 4-hour flight northwest from Hong Kong, we arrived in Tokyo to a city blanketed by dark clouds and heavy rain, a far cry from the sunny, hot, and sticky tropical heat of Hong Kong. After successfully navigating the Narita Airport train station (with a fair amount of help from Google Translate), we zoomed toward the city center, excited to explore this massive, ultra-modern metropolis, arriving late at our cozy boutique hotel in Shimbashi, a quiet district and our home for the next handful of days.
Our first meal in Japan still stands out as easily one of the best. Tired, hungry, and overwhelmed by options, we ended up at a tiny Udon shop near Shimbashi Station. Ordering our noodles through a streetside vending machine, we made our best guess from the selection of bowls, again with a little help from Google Translate. Less than five minutes later, we were slurping (really, everyone slurps!) up some of the best noodles we’d ever had in our life. Fresh, hot, and perfectly chewy, we stood at tables in the back next to office workers in dark suits getting a quick bite on their way home. It felt like stepping into a food documentary — authentic, special, and beyond delicious. On our way out, we snuck a peek at one of the chefs, covered in flour and rolling out a giant ball of dough, barely comprehending that we just ate handmade fresh udon noodles for under $3 a bowl. 

Tokyo is exactly like we imagined and yet completely unlike anywhere we’ve ever been. With a population of nearly 38 million people, the city is somehow incredibly quiet. We learn quickly that the etiquette and cultural norms run deep here, and there’s an unspoken system to how people navigate the streets, trains, and social spaces, that seems to work effortlessly. It might be the cleanest city we’ve ever been to (apart from Singapore?), with almost no trash on the streets.​​
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Despite its size and modernity, Tokyo has a timeless quality to it. We found ourselves wandering quiet neighborhoods, stumbling upon hidden noodle shops, and encountering beautiful temples tucked between glass towers. Tying everything together is a distinct sense of order. Everything — from the way people eat, drink, and prepare tea — is done with intention. 

While we’re usually drawn to off-the-beaten-path experiences, we leaned into some of the popular sights, from the neon-lit streets of Shibuya and Shinjuku, to the immersive TeamLab Planets exhibit, meeting new local partners, joining small group tours and diving into the food culture to learn (and eat!) as much as we could.

The Nakasendo Trail - Japan's Hidden Gem

After more than a week in two of the world’s largest cities, we wanted to switch gears and explore some of Japan’s most scenic countryside, embarking on a 3-day hiking adventure along the Nakasendo Trail. This ancient route connects Tokyo to Kyoto and takes you through the stunning Kiso Valley, past old wooden post towns, bamboo forests, and towering cedar trees. Mostly off-the-beaten-path and a polar-opposite vibe from Tokyo, the trail was the perfect way to seek the quiet nature we were craving.
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Our hike took us to ryokans (traditional inns), peaceful shrines, and even the occasional onsen (hot spring bath). The experience was everything we hoped for — authentic, serene, and a perfect addition to our upcoming Designed Trip.
But what really made this journey unforgettable was one particular day. Waking up at 5 am (just before Japan’s insanely early sunrise) to start the hike and avoid an incoming thunderstorm, we found ourselves completely alone on the trail for hours — walking through bamboo forests, alongside rice paddies, and under the swaying branches of wild monkeys. It was one of the most amazing hikes either of us have ever been on, so when we rolled into the tiny village of Tsumago and there was no sign of rain, we didn't want it to end. 
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Forever optimists, with tired legs, we decided to continue on and do the following day's 5 mile stretch as well. But about an hour in, the rain started. It was pouring, and we were immediately soaking wet, hiding beneath trees and wrapping our laptops in t-shirts to safeguard in our packs. It felt like a true adventure, with all of our belongings on our backs, slipping and sliding down ancient cobblestones and surrounded by low clouds and very few other (crazy) hikers. When we reached Magome and ducked into a tiny udon noodle restaurant, we were completely spent, soaked and starving. But boy, was that bowl of hot soup the best thing we had ever tasted!

​In the end, the sights, the museums, the temples were all amazing. But it's safe to say that we’ll both remember this day (and those noodles) for the rest of our lives.

Kyoto - Finding Magic Off the Beaten Path

Before arriving in Kyoto, we were totally ready to fall in love. Every single person we talked to who had been to Japan told us how much we’d love it. The traditional neighborhoods, the countless temples and shrines, the riverside, and of course, the food. But after spending multiple days in the quiet post towns and barely-traversed paths of the Kiso Valley, the throngs of tourists and overcrowded sights hit us like a ton of bricks. Determined to see the best of the city without spending our days among a forest of selfie-sticks, we quickly decided to pivot. 
So we found a bike rental shop, hopped on bikes and pedaled our way to some  of the local neighborhoods and lesser known temples and shrines, doing our best to soak up the city’s magical energy in a more peaceful setting. We ended up joining a small tour of Gion after dark, when the district is far less crowded, and (bonus) we had the chance to see geishas walking to and from tea houses. 
We cycled to the outskirts of town to have the best sushi of our lives in a 4-table, husband & wife-run restaurant, and we found a tiny tea house where we took part in a traditional tea ceremony, learning about the long history and important role it plays in Japanese society, especially in Kyoto. We absolutely still went to all the tourist sights to check them out, but after five days, we really figured out the best way for us to fall in love with this ultra popular destination was to get a little lost and stumble upon the less discovered corners of the city. 
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One of the (many) things that made this trip so special was the newness. Often times we can find connections or similar energies between countries, especially within the same region. But Japan, in particular, felt entirely it's own. The food, culture, rituals, rules, nature, and religion were all so uniquely Japanese - with so many experiences we haven't had anywhere else in the world. This made for a truly special and unique travel experience that we absolutely cannot wait to share. 

If Japan is on your list, stay tuned — our new Designed Trip, will (as always), include the hotels, activities, partners, guides and travel tips that we've experienced first-hand. Keep an eye out - it's coming soon!

Happy travels!
Megan & Ryan
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