<![CDATA[Cohica Travel

<![CDATA[Cohica Travel - Blog]]>Tue, 11 Aug 2026 08:55:32 -0700Weebly<![CDATA[Our 2026 Travel Wishlist]]>Mon, 05 Jan 2026 17:13:05 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/our-2026-travel-wishlist

We only have one tradition in our house, but it is taken very seriously. Every January we start the new year by sitting down together, opening a map of the world, taking a realistic look at our finances and putting together our Travel Wishlist for the year ahead. We take this ritual very seriously - thinking about our goals, timing, and priorities, and always trying to push ourselves to try something new or different each year (since traveling continues to shift our perspective and blow our minds, even after all these years). It’s one of our favorite times of year, with 12 glorious months in front of us to see, explore, and experience as much of the world as we can, in order to enrich ourselves, be more knowledgeable in travel destinations and continue to develop epic new Designed Trips for you.

1. Tanzania & Kenya: Zanzibar, Arusha, the Serengeti, Amboseli, & Nairobi
East Africa has topped our travel wishlist for as long as we can remember, and we’ll finally be making it happen with a 2+ week long adventure through Tanzania & Kenya. We’ll start with some relaxed beach time on the shores of Zanzibar before hopping on a short flight to Arusha, where we’ll head off for a 6-day safari across Northern Tanzania, exploring Tarangire National Park, Ngorongoro Crater, and following the great migration through the Serengeti during the country’s short dry season (which also happens to be calving season!). From there, we’ll shoot back to Arusha and cross into Kenya by land, spending a few days hanging out with massive herds of elephants and views of Kilimanjaro at Amboseli National Park, before cruising up to Nairobi for a couple of nights. A Safari Designed Trip is one of our most requested, and is honestly a dream come true for us. Stay tuned and follow our trip on social media - we leave in less than a week!

2. Panama & El Salvador
Central America has always been one of our favorite travel destinations, and this year we’re headed to Panama, a place that we've somehow still never been. After a direct flight from Madrid to Panama City, we’ll spend a couple of weeks traversing the country, from isolated islands, to mountain towns surrounded by lush jungles. From there, the plan is to hop on a short flight to El Salvador, a place we’ve only ever passed through. Another country with an unreal combination of beautiful beaches, scenic volcanoes, and incredible culture, that’s recently become much safer to visit (at the price of an extremely questionable government). But more than anything, we’re coming back for the pupusas. Oh. My. God. If you’ve never had a pupusa, consider this your sign. Our 2026 Central American adventure will most certainly result in another new Designed Trip (or two!), so keep an eye out if you’re itching for an adventure as well.

3. Balearic Islands (Menorca?)
Living less than an hour from Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza, and Formentera makes weekend getaways to the Balearic Islands mandatory each summer. This year, we’re planning on a quick villa vacay with some of our amigos in early June. The island? Still to be determined, but probably Mallorca or Menorca. Their dreamy coves and turquoise waters are just too tempting.

4. Turkey -or- Brazil -or- Indonesia
We’ve spent the last few summers hopping across the Greek Islands, and as tempting as it is to head back again this year, we’ve decided it’s time for a change. While this year’s escape from the hot and humid doldrums of August is still up in the air, we have started to narrow down the list:

Turkey: We’ve been dreaming of a trip to Turkey for ages, but it somehow still hasn’t come to fruition. Two weeks discovering Istanbul, Cappadocia, and the Turquoise Coast is definitely happening, and this may be the year.
Brazil: A place that’s seemed overwhelming to us for a long time, in most part because it’s so big that it feels like we’d need at least a month just to scratch the surface. Still, we continue to be drawn to Brazil’s rich culture, varied landscapes, tropical weather, and amazing beaches.
Indonesia: We’ve been to Bali (and Lombok) a few times, and to us, it never gets old. Its wonderfully unique version of Hinduism, gracious and welcoming people, delicious food, beautiful natural landscapes and temples are in a lot of ways, unbeatable. With that said, our next trip to Indonesia will undoubtedly include stops to see Orangutans in the wild in Sumatra and the temples of Yogyakarta, on Java.

5. Copenhagen
Denmark’s capital seems to perfectly blend a modern and innovative culture, with rich history and a charming, cozy vibe (we’re all about that Hygge!). It’s a weekend trip from Valencia that’s long overdue. Ryanair, if you’re listening, this is a route that needs to be added to the flight schedule asap.

6. Krakow
We’ve been told over and over again what an amazing city Krakow is and this year, it might finally be time that we see it for ourselves. With its medieval old town, Jewish quarter, and close proximity to the dark, but important history at Auschwitz, there are too many reasons to make the trip to Poland this year.

7. Laos
Last making an appearance on this annual list in 2021, we’re sad to say we didn’t make it to Laos that year (or anywhere else in Asia, sadly). A mountainous country bordered by Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, Myanmar, and China, Laos has been on the backpacker circuit for decades now, yet it’s still far less-visited than most of its neighbors. Known for stunning natural landscapes, Buddhist culture (with temples and monasteries dotting the country), and French colonial architecture, it’s really a must-visit destination in SE Asia, but we somehow haven’t been there. We’re not sure how the year will shake out, but this could be a good option for the holiday season.

8. Tallinn
We’ve long been obsessed with Tallinn, Estonia’s historic capital city, placed on the country’s northern shores, where the Baltic Sea meets the gulf of Finland. It’s just one of those under-the-radar destinations that’s so intriguing, with a Nordic and Eastern European cultural fusion and the authenticity (we hope) of Europe’s less-traveled cities.

9. Thailand
We made an unexpected and quick stop in Bangkok in 2025, and were instantly reminded of how much we love this country. This, along with some friends’ recent travel stories, has us itching to get back as soon as we can. This time, we’ll head south to the islands, exploring some spots off the backpacker circuit but with the same amazing food, beaches, culture, people and relaxed SE Asia energy that we dream about (especially now, in the depths of winter!)

Sitting in our cozy office during the first week of January, we never know what the year will bring. If we will hop around the world to all of these places, or if new interests, opportunities, or a desire to stay put, will change the course. But right now, we’re ready to go. Ready for an adventure, the delightful discomfort of somewhere new and foreign, to learn, observe and listen. And we’ll come home with more knowledge, contacts, information, and a deeper understanding to help you have enriching travel experiences too. The world is small and the possibilities in 2026 are endless. So let’s get going!

Read our past Wishlists:
Our 2017 Travel Wishlist
Our 2018 Travel Wishlist
Our 2019 Travel Wishlist
Our 2020 Travel Wishlist
Our 2021 Travel Wishlist
Our 2025 Travel Wishlist

]]><![CDATA[2025 Travel Recap]]>Mon, 05 Jan 2026 11:49:17 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/2025-travel-recap

What's a New Year, if not a time to pause and reflect? As always, we ended up spending a large portion of 2025 on airplanes and in hotel rooms. After all of these years, we still love traveling more than anything else, and are so grateful to have built a life that supports our shared passion. We visited a fair amount of repeat destinations in 2025, with the goal to strengthen partnerships and update some of our current Designed Trips, and to develop a few new exciting Designed Trips (The Philippines! Greece!). But it wasn’t all work! We also pushed ourselves to try new things, made memories with friends and family, and leaned into the freedom and fun of traveling that we sometimes miss when we make it all about work. It was a year to remember, and before we set out our (very exciting) plans for 2026, we're looking back at the best of 2025...

London (again & again)
We rang in the New Year with our best mates on our 7th trip to jolly ol England, freezing our booties off but soaking in all of the holiday cheer, with west end shows, swanky hotels and a silly number of buttery crumpets. In August, we returned again for trip number 8, this time with far more reasonable temperatures and a birthday celebration for our friend’s 40th. And no, it’s still not lost on us how cool it is to ‘pop up to London’ a couple times a year.

The Philippines
Our biggest adventure of the year, we spent 3 glorious weeks exploring the powdery white sand, crystal-clear waters, stunning scenery and jungle waterfalls of 6 islands to develop our new (epic) Philippines Designed Trip. With the goal of deepening our travel experiences, pushing ourselves to try new things and connect with local cultures, we boarded a traditional Filipino bangka boat with 18 travelers for a three-day journey from Coron to El Nido. Swimming from the boat to uninhabited islands, sleeping in raised beach huts, meeting friends from around the world, and being without wifi or data, was one of the most memorable travel experiences we’ve ever had. We also surfed, cliff jumped, did some incredible canyoning, and cruised around on motorbikes, tapping into the freedom and adventure that we were craving - see our full Travel Blog here, and check out our NEW Philippines Designed Trip, developed for all types of travelers - not just the adventurers!

Thailand (again)
An unexpected cold front in SE Asia resulted in a last-minute flight change to sunny Bangkok. We went on both the bike tour and food tour in our Thailand Designed Trip, stayed at two different hotels to experience their locations and offerings, and generally were reminded of how much we love Thailand, it's amazing people, culture and incredible food. Pretty good for an impromptu visit.

Vietnam (again)
If you’ve been with us awhile, you know that we have some serious nostalgia for Vietnam, ever since we left the U.S. to travel in 2015 (10 years ago!?) and spent nearly a month traveling the country from top to bottom. So, whenever we can squeeze in a stop to wake up to the delightful chaos of the one million motorbikes and pho for breakfast, we jump at the chance. Hanoi delivered, as always, and after 5 weeks in SE Asia, we boarded our flights home with three huge bags of Vietnamese coffee beans.
If Vietnam is on your 2026 Travel Wishlist, check out our Vietnam Designed Trip!

Morocco (again)
It continues to amaze us that we can reach a whole different climate, culture and experience in just a couple short hours. Morocco is perfect in springtime when warm temps haven’t yet reached the rest of Europe. This trip, we traveled with Megan’s Dad and spent a handful of days combing ancient tiled palaces, eating olives and tagines, and trying very hard not to get lost in the medina. We were reminded that sometimes a destination can be completely new based on who you experience it with, and we will always have good memories from this family adventure. (Check out our Morocco Designed Trip for a travel experience you'll never forget).

Greece (again)
Our goal for this year’s Greece trip was to spend 2+ weeks hopping around the Cyclades in search of the best less visited, hidden gem islands. We’re talking slow mornings over spinach pies, empty beaches with turquoise water, local tavernas with cheap mezze, and goats wandering hillsides dotted with tiny white chapels. We found some of the most beautiful and relaxed summer scenes we have ever experienced and, in turn, designed our dream trip to Greece to the quiet islands of Folegandros, Sifnos, and Koufonisia. We also snuck in a stop to Milos to say Kalimera to our fave partners, and Santorini to stay in a cliffside cave hotel, because, ya know, that’s what you do there. Overall, we couldn’t imagine a more perfect summer trip if we tried.
Check out our NEW Gems of the Aegean Designed Trip Or, if you’re looking for a more traditional trip, check out the Classic Island Hop, or the Best Less Known Islands Designed Trip.

Menorca (again)
Following a strangely chilly September trip to Colorado and California, we were not ready for summer to end. So, after celebrating Ryan’s birthday (and obsessively tracking the weather), we hopped on a last-minute flight for a few sunny early-October days in Menorca. It was exactly what we needed - with coastal runs, cliff jumps, swims in turquoise coves and end of season hotel rates - all the ingredients of a perfect getaway. Every single time we visit the Balearic islands (especially Menorca, sigh), we have conversations about how unbelievably magical these places are and how infrequently travelers request them. So much so, that we’re in the process of developing a new Designed Trip to Menorca and Mallorca (and our home city of Valencia!). It’s high time we share these special places with fellow travelers, so keep an eye out!

Porto (again)
Megan’s childhood friend and her mom visiting was the perfect excuse to visit the riverside city of Porto once again. Although the weather was not on our side, sleeping in a former palace and an e-bike tour through the hilly cobbled streets in the pouring rain will be a lasting memory! We also met with our partners to experience the food and port tour from our Porto Designed Trip, and connected with some old friends for a traditional Francesinha dinner, which while delicious, made us all want a salad after.

Amsterdam (again)
In an effort to close out the year with some fun, we popped up to Amsterdam for a Royel Otis concert (Ryan’s birthday gift). We stayed in a cozy old hotel, walked all around the city and sat down to a vegetarian tasting menu that turned out to be the best meal of our lives. It was a delayed celebration of our anniversary, Ryan’s birthday, and another strong year of business, leaving us feeling very grateful for each other, and the life we’ve built together.

It was one for the books! But 2026 is a new year! And we have some very exciting plans in place, in hopes for an exciting year of travel to new destinations. Check out our 2026 Travel Wishlist!

NEXT UP: 2026 Travel Wishlist

]]><![CDATA[Mexico City: Culture & Cuisine]]>Mon, 07 Jul 2025 07:00:00 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/mexico-city-culture-cuisine

Hola, Mexico City!

We’ve been dreaming of visiting this mega metropolis for what feels like forever – not just for the art, culture, history, and cool neighborhoods to explore, but also for the FOOD. There are a lot of perks to living in Europe, but decent Mexican food is definitely not one of them. Just in the last few years, we've seen more trendy taco spots open up, but most are anything but authentic. So, in short, we’ve come hungry. With only four days, and a mission to devour as many tacos as humanly possible, we arrived jetlagged in the warm chaos of Mexico’s capital, ready to explore, experience, and eat. Vamos!!!

First Stop: Tacos!

Mexico City, or CDMX (Ciudad de México), is a sprawling capital with a population of over 9 million, making it one of the largest cities in the world. It’s a place where modern life and rich history blend seamlessly – with centuries-old buildings sitting alongside buzzing neighborhoods, hip cafés, and vibrant street markets offering everything from handmade crafts, fresh fruits like the sweet and tangy *sabra* (cactus fruit), and sweet hibiscus (jamaica) and tamarindo agua frescas. It's also the birthplace of iconic Mexican dishes like the taco, tamale, and mole.

Mexico City is known for its cuisine, offering everything from cheap and delicious street food, to Michelin Starred dining. As the largest city in Mexico, it draws people from all over the country, so most of the regional specialties are available and highly represented. It also is home to innovation, with restaurants by some of the world’s best chefs and gourmet food trucks with creative takes on Mexican classics. Bottom line - four days is not enough.

For this adventure, we’re meeting up with Megan’s Dad, Mike, a fellow taco enthusiast and one of our top travel buddies. On our first morning, we walk along the uneven sidewalks of tree-covered streets to a nearby cafe for a bike and food tour. One of our all-time favorite activity combos, there are few things we like more than being active between stopping to taste (and learn about) new foods. Over the next four hours, we buy hot corn tortillas right off the grill, and lose count of how many tacos, quesadillas, and tlacoyos we consume. We opt for the (somewhat limited but still delicious) veggie options, while Mike represents the carnivores of the world, tasting the famous al pastor (the famous spit-roasted pork), carnitas (slow-cooked pork), and suadero (beef) tacos. Armed with the knowledge of which foods we love, how to order and what accompaniments not to miss, we’re ready to continue our adventure.

A Michelin Dining Experience

We’re new to the fine dining scene. We fought it for a while - feeling like it wasn't totally us and disliking the stuffiness, pretentiousness and (obviously) price tag of it all. But our intrigue won out, because we also really love and appreciate really good food, especially food that’s prepared with care, artistry and precision. So here we are. Our second ever Michelin Dining experience in a beautiful wood paneled open-air dining room on the outskirts of Mexico City.

There are a plethora of Michelin-stars to seek out in this foodie city, and after a fair amount of research by Ryan, we choose Sud 777, by Chef Edgar Nuñez, mainly for his shared love of vegetables and ability to craft them into delicious works of art. We also like that the tasting menu isn’t required and we can pick and choose our favorite dishes off the menu. And that we do, enjoying four courses of shared plates that are representative of Mexican cuisine and ingredients, with the surprise show-stopper being a chilled green melon with yogurt, dill and finely sliced chilies. As we have with nearly every meal, we rank the dishes 1-10, and have some laughs picking, choosing and sharing. It’s what a Michelin starred dinner should be like, we think.

A Quick Cultural Pause: The Frida Kahlo Museum

Between all the tacos, we decide to venture over to the Frida Kahlo Museum, aka Casa Azul, which tops nearly all of the Mexico City must-see guides. Located in Coyoacán, one of the most charming neighborhoods in the city, it’s where Frida grew up, lived with her husband Diego Rivera, and created most of her iconic art. We’ve always admired Frida from afar, but getting to step inside her world was a totally different experience.

Learning about her life – from the polio she had as a child to the horrific bus accident that nearly killed her at 18 – gave us a whole new perspective on her work. The way she turned her pain into vibrant, emotional art is nothing short of inspiring. In fact, many of her most famous self-portraits were painted while she was bedridden, staring into a mirror mounted above her. The museum offers an intimate look into her life, from her personal letters to her colorful wardrobe, and you can almost feel the strength and spirit she poured into her work.

Frida’s home is filled with some of her best-loved works and artifacts, but it’s also surrounded by the vibrant charm of Coyoacán – a bohemian neighborhood where cobblestone streets are lined with cafés, art galleries, and lush gardens. We spent a bustling Sunday afternoon wandering around the area, popping into one of the local markets for a plate of enchiladas, walking between stalls of art and paintings and watching older couples salsa dancing in the plaza before hopping in a taxi back to Roma Norte.

Adios, CDMX!

After four whirlwind days of tacos, cycling, culture, fine dining, we say a heartfelt adios to Mexico City. We ate enough to feed a small army, and we saw enough colorful murals, museums, and mercados to last at least a few months until we start to have the Mexico itch again. Yes, we love tacos, but what keeps us coming back to this incredible country is the celebratory culture and the consistently warm and welcoming people. We will never stop loving Mexico, and never stop coming back.

Hasta luego,
Megan & Ryan

]]><![CDATA[The Philippines: Island hopping & adventuring]]>Mon, 21 Apr 2025 07:00:00 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/the-philippines-island-hopping-adventuring

The Philippines has been on our travel wishlist for what feels like forever. Made up of over 7,600 islands and home to some of the world's most beautiful beaches and epic scenery, it’s a destination that we’ve always known we would love. We have had amazing experiences traveling throughout SE Asia and there are few things in the world that we enjoy more than riding scooters from beach, to waterfall, to jungle hike, and being sun crisp and salty for days at a time. So, spending 3.5 weeks hopping between six different islands, all to create an epic Philippines Designed Trip is pretty much the best work assignment we could ever dream up.

Island #1: Bohol

We didn’t really know what the Philippines had in store for us until the moment we touched down on Bohol's single runway and hopped in a taxi. In the 10 minute drive to our hotel, our driver serenaded us - at full, sing-like-no-one-is-listening volume, to three Bon Jovi songs (the highlight being It’s My Life, obviously). Beyond the foreshadowing (we’ll come to learn how much Filipinos love karaoke), we were immediately struck by the relaxed, welcoming and friendly energy. The next day, we hopped on scooters and cruised along the coast to the forested interior of Bohol to visit wild tarsiers (tiny wide-eyed primates that only live a few places in the world), the famous Chocolate Hills (more green than brown at the moment), and incredible waterfalls, where we jumped and swam in cold turquoise river water. We returned after dark, watching the sun go down from the coastal road, smelling like campfire from riding through the smoke of all the BBQ stalls in the tiny villages along the way. It turned out that the beaches of Panglao, the small island off Bohol where we stayed, were everything we imagined, with coconut grove covered white sand blurring the border with the turquoise sea, and outrigger fishing boats bobbing in the gentle waves as the tide went out. It was quite a dreamy first stop on our island hopping adventure, but after a few nights, it was already time for island #2, the less visited Siquijor.

Island #2: Siquijor

Whenever we go to a new country, we always try to add a stop that's off the typical circuit and a little less traveled. For our Philippines adventure, Siquijor was that place. There are no 711’s or McDonald's, just local shops and a few recently opened smoothie bowl spots along the one main road that circles the island. The energy is slow and relaxed. It didn't take long for us to realize that this island has a little bit of magic baked in. Multiple times a day, we found ourselves looking at one another and asking if we've ever been somewhere so pretty. It reminded us of East Maui, but with giant groves of coconut trees, rice paddies and goats, dogs, cows, chickens, and the occasional pig wandering along the side of the road. We happily spent three days cliff jumping, rope swinging into waterfall pools, and snorkeling the reef in front of our little beachfront cottage before getting to work after the sun went down. Just as we were getting into the rhythm of true island life (somebody pinch us), adventure was calling and it was already time to hop on a ferry to one of the Philippines better known islands, Cebu.

Island #3: Cebu

A few months ago, sitting in our living room watching travel vlogs on the other side of the world, it was almost hard to believe that the Kawasan Canyon was real. With steep jungle-covered canyon walls, multiple waterfalls and a bright turquoise river running through the valley floor, it looked like something straight out of a movie set (Jurassic Park?). Although we visited on a rainy day, it was every bit as epic as we imagined. We partnered with a local canyoneering outfitter and spent a morning jumping off more waterfalls, sliding down rocks, hiking through the rainforest and swimming through the calm river. It was a pretty epic adventure - so fun and such an amazing experience. (We saw people of every age and fitness level, but if you happen to not be a jump-in-the-river type of person, there are other wonderful ways to explore and enjoy this incredibly beautiful canyon.)

Boat Expedition from Coron to Palawan (Island #4)

Over the past few years, we've done a lot of thinking about how we like to travel and the types of experiences, tours, and excursions we want to share with other people. Since Cohica was born (9 years ago!), we've always focused on including cultural, authentic & socially responsible experiences in every one of our trips. But lately, we've been personally trying to push ourselves a bit - to try something new, to learn something different, or to dig into a culture or experience a little deeper than we normally would. Rewind to last March, when we found ourselves sitting at a yoga and surf camp in southern India (a new experience!), chatting with another traveler from Europe who told us about a boat trip she did in the Philippines. She said it was her most memorable travel experience and that we absolutely had to do it. Fast forward one year, and here we are hopping on a traditional Filipino bangka boat with a group of 18 other travelers for three days cruising from the island of Coron to El Nido in Palawan.

Within hours of boarding the boat on day one, our minds were blown. The islands are virtually untouched - some larger and more forested and others barely-there bars of sand poking through the glowing blue water. We jumped off the boat, with fins and snorkels, taking in colorful coral, schools of parrotfish and tiny clown fish on our way to shore. Later we would learn that this was an everyday, multiple-times-a-day kinda activity. As the sun set, we cruised up to the island of our first base camp - raised traditional beach huts called bahay kubo, each with a freshly made mattress and two pillows, covered with a mosquito net. It’s far from luxury but after a day of sun and swimming and chatting with new friends, we fell asleep quickly to the sound of the waves and the coconut trees outside of our door.

We started to embrace a pattern, wake up, breakfast and back on the boat to explore more islands. On day two, we visited a small island village, where every kid we passed waved and screamed hello, and we got a glimpse of life on a very remote island. We walked past fish drying in the sun and food being prepared outside on fires before playing a game of basketball with the boat crew, all who had serious game, especially in flip flops. The afternoon was spent swimming with sea turtles, and sipping beers between games of beach volleyball, karaoke, and bonfires. With no data or wifi, our usually-buzzing minds were quiet, and our to-do lists were tucked away. The beauty of this multi-day excursion (something we’ve never done before!) is that it allowed us to be fully present in the moment, the scenery, and the experience - something that is rare, and completely inspiring.

Island #5: Palawan

Our visit to island number 5 on our Philippines adventure was a short and sweet one. The town, El Nido, is set below towering limestone cliffs and is arguably the most famous location in the country, more for the mind-blowing natural landscapes that surround it than the town itself. With only two nights, we rented a private boat with some new pals to see all the surrounding lagoons, hidden coves, and hard-to-reach beaches. The contrast of the black limestone rock formation with the white sand and turquoise water is exactly how you envision paradise. Even after being spoiled with a fair amount of palm-covered islands over the past few days, we were still completely in awe - it's like being on a movie set, or at Disneyland, something that seems fake, it's so pretty. After nearly six days of sun, swimming and activity, we leave the island as the sun is rising, from a one-room airport with a single gate and a small propeller plane parked outside the door.

Island #6: Siargao

The 6th and final island on our Philippines adventure was possibly the one we'd been looking forward to the most. We try very hard to enter into every new travel experience without expectations (this can make or break a trip!), but this island has been seriously hyped lately in the travel world. It's considered the surfing capital of the Philippines, and people are calling it the next Bali, which in SE Asia, is quite the thing.

We've never met a surf destination that we didn't love, and Siargao was no different. It’s the laidback energy, healthy food, cheap massages and cool people that surf towns attract, so with this in mind, we spent nearly a week on this little island to catch-up on work, and of course, catch some waves. We definitely fall into the beginner surfer category, but after our first official lesson in Lombok, Indonesia, a few years ago, we were hooked on the adrenaline rush and physical challenge that comes with this easier-than-it-looks sport. The notorious Cloud 9 break in Siargao has waves for all levels, and although a bit crowded, is exactly what you picture, with surf schools lining the palm-covered shoreline and beach bars selling smoothie bowls.

Boarding a flight home after more than a month in Asia is always a sad moment, but our bellies were full of homemade noodles and our suitcases were packed with Vietnamese coffee and matcha KitKats, so we left with zero complaints.

Interested in visiting the Philippines? We're currently working on a brand NEW Designed Trip based on the hotels and activities that we've visited and experienced and the local contacts that we've made during our trip. Stay tuned!

]]><![CDATA[Our 2025 Travel Wishlist]]>Wed, 05 Feb 2025 15:04:04 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/our-2025-travel-wishlist

How are we already more than a month into 2025? As usual, January came at us with that fresh new year energy and we've been very busy putting loads of exciting Custom and Designed Trips on the books for this spring and summer. We already have dozens of travelers set to visit all corners of the earth in 2025, and we couldn’t be more excited for the adventures and experiences that lie ahead.

It never surprises us to get a huge inflow of trip requests in January. After all, it’s a natural time to look ahead and plan/dream about all of the places you could travel to. We’re not big on New Year’s resolutions in our house, but starting the year with a travel wishlist is a tradition that we take very seriously. Every year since 2017, we sit down on a cold day in January, open a map, our travel budget and a bottle of wine, and start crafting a list of where we want to visit in the year ahead. Some places on the list will become a reality, some may get pushed to next year, or just fall off the list, but part of the joy of traveling is dreaming, so we always start with the assumption that we can go everywhere.

2024 Recap

Part of this process is reflecting on last year, which included returning to a few of our favorite destinations, along with exploring a small handful of exciting firsts. As always, we met new local tour guides, visited some great boutique hotels, and experienced activities first-hand in order to develop awesome new Designed Trips and include them in our Custom Travel Plans. It was a lot of great work, but it wasn’t all work.

India

We spent three exciting weeks in India, hiking through tea plantations, kayaking through the Kerala backwaters and hanging ten at a surf and yoga camp before feeding street cows, combing through palaces, and learning about the complex and fascinating history in Rajasthan. We arrived home stimulated, a bit exhausted, but mostly inspired with a strong reminder of how much we love being somewhere new and trying new things, learning about a different culture, and feeling a level of stimulation and inspiration that we don't get in our day-to-day.

Canary Islands

A week working from Spain’s Canary islands of Lanzarote and Fuerteventura in the spring offered a nice recharge, with some cool volcanic hikes and wild landscapes. This destination has been on our wishlist list for years (see our 2019 wishlist), but unfortunately we just didn’t love it for a variety of reasons (the main one being how difficult it was to find authenticity and non-tourist experiences) which is why you haven’t seen a Canary Island Designed Trip on the site. But this is how we know - you can’t believe everything you see on travel vlogs and Instagram.

Greece

As usual, our goal for summer was to spend as much time at the beach and in the sea as humanly possible. So, it was back to Greece for our 5th visit, and as usual, it did not disappoint. Our goal was to island hop around some of the smaller and lesser known Cycladic islands for a more relaxed, laid back and local experience. It ended up being one of the best, most relaxed trips of the year and resulted in our new (and already very popular) Greece: The Best Less Known Islands Designed Trip.

Italy

In August, we popped down to Puglia, another favorite destination that we can’t seem to get enough of and offers an amazing summer scene, with a side of fresh pasta. We drank primitivo and ate handmade burrata between checking in with some of our favorite hotels - most of which are ancient farms that have been converted into boutique properties. And yessss, a Puglia Designed Trip is coming, because it’s a very special spot in Italy that we can’t wait to share more.

Japan

Japan had been on our wishlist since the beginning of time, and we have had countless requests for a Designed Trip, so we decided 2024 was the year. After a fun city stopover in Hong Kong, we spent five days combing through Tokyo, going on food tours, checking out museums and visiting temples before heading to the Kiso Valley for three days of hiking the ancient Nakasendo Trail. The adventure ended in Kyoto where we cycled to shrines, hung out with wild deer in Nara and walked through bamboo forests. We were completely in awe of Japan and, if it's on your list, we think you will be too.

Mexico

After all that sushi, we were craving something with a bit more spice, so in November, we hopped over to Mexico City where we ate a ridiculous number of tacos, quesadillas and tlacoyos with Megan's dad, before heading to Colorado for a family Thanksgiving.

England

Finally, we wrapped 2024 with our 6th visit to London to see some of the shows and museums we’ve never been to and to ring in the new year with some of our closest pals.

It was a big year, and we're incredibly grateful for the continued requests we get for new Designed Trips, which allows us to continue to do what we love. But now, it’s February, and there’s a lot more world out there, so it’s time to get moving...

2025 Travel Wishlist

#1 - The Philippines

Over 7,600 islands and some of the world's most beautiful beaches and we still haven't been there? How?! There are few things we love more than riding scooters from beach, to waterfall, to jungle hikes, and being suncrisp and salty for days at a time, so the island nation of The Philippines feels like the perfect destination for us. Plus, we’ve partnered with a local sailing company for a multi-day adventure at sea that will take us to uninhabited islands, which we think future travelers will love as much as we surely will. Flights are booked and we leave THIS WEEK, so it is happening!

#2 - Vietnam (again): Hanoi & Ninh Binh

By far one of our all-time favorite countries in the world, we almost always try to squeeze in a stop when we’re in Asia. Vietnam has it all - culture, history, amazing people, breathtaking landscapes and omg, the food! We’ve managed to squeeze in a week on the end of our Philippines trip and are very excited to see some of our favorite partners in Hanoi and Ninh Binh (and also to eat our weight in fresh rolls and veggie pho).

#3 - Spain (again): Balearic Islands, Mallorca or Menorca & Rioja

We’ve been calling Spain home again for the last year or so after one too many rainy Tuscan winters, and since, we’ve reignited our love for this incredibly diverse and sun soaked country. The Balearic islands, specifically Menorca and Mallorca, are home to some of Europe’s best beaches and such an easy hop from Valencia (or Barcelona/Madrid!). We’re continuously astonished that more summer travelers don’t request this tiny slice of heaven in the middle of the Med, and have landed on the fact that maybe it’s still a bit of a hidden gem. We love these islands, we’ll always go back and we know them well, so ask us if you’re interested!

Another Spanish region to explore? Rioja. It’s easy to reach and produces some of the best wine in Europe. It's also incredibly affordable and may be a perfect long weekend escape this year.

#4 - Iceland

The thing is that it's really cold, and that's why we never go. But we think we can invest in some thick jackets and tough it out for the otherworldly landscape, volcanoes and hot springs. It’s been on our list for years, so if we go, ya better believe we're doing the full ring road to get to all the remote places.

#5 - Greece (again)

Eternally on Megan's list, especially after last year's super relaxed island hop around the tiny, lesser known Cycladics. Now we’re hooked - we want to discover new places and visit all the spots that no one talks about to help adventurous travelers do the same (and obviously eat all the feta along the way).

#6 - Turkey

Not sure how we haven't made it past Istanbul because Turkey has been on our list for A LOOONG time. Cappadocia, with its famous fairy chimney landscape and magical hot air balloons, and the southern coast around Antalya are calling to us. Add in Turkish food, customs and hammams, and we’ll be surprised if this one doesn’t make it on the agenda in 2025.

#7 - Panama

Possibly an addition to a trip home, with great beaches, potential island hopping and some cool cultural experiences. It's one of the only countries we skipped in Central America and we can't figure out why with all it has to offer.

#8 - Kenya & Tanzania

Will this be the year? Fingers crossed, because we've been itching for an Africa trip for what feels like forever. We know you are too - this (along with Japan) is our #1 requested destination, so we’ll do our best to make it happen. We really like the idea of combining a safari or two with a few days on Zanzibar for some relaxing beach time (yes, we squeeze in the beach whenever possible).

Although we already have adventures on the books, 2025 feels full of possibilities. Here’s to a new year full of new experiences, fun and adventure! Now let’s gooooo!

Megan & Ryan

Our 2017 Travel Wishlist
Our 2018 Travel Wishlist
Our 2019 Travel Wishlist
Our 2020 Travel Wishlist
Our 2021 Travel Wishlist

]]><![CDATA[Hong Kong & Japan: A trip of firsts]]>Wed, 04 Dec 2024 11:43:58 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/hong-kong-japan-a-trip-of-firsts

We’ve traveled to nearly 50 countries together, and every trip just deepens our love for this — the endless discovery, the unexpected connections, the adventure of figuring out how to get from point A to B, the thrill of trying new things, and the joy of learning, then immediately fumbling, a few phrases in a local language. Our love for travel has never waned and we’re beyond grateful for the chance to help others feel that same spark, passion, and excitement each time they step off a plane.

To celebrate Ryan’s birthday this year, we decided to head somewhere we’ve always dreamed of — Japan. Although this was definitely a trip to scratch our personal itch, our time in Japan was also packed with connecting, learning, and soaking up every bit of culture to create our next Cohica Designed Trip, which we will launch very soon, but for now, here’s a taste of what we experienced on our travels.

Hong Kong — A City of Contrasts

After a short connection in Amsterdam, we hopped on board a 12-hour flight to Hong Kong, the perfect city to explore and de-jetlag before Japan. Hot, humid, and buzzing with energy, this city has been on our list for a long time. From the shiny, modern skyscrapers of Hong Kong Island, to the organized chaos of the Kowloon markets selling snake meat and turtles just across Victoria Harbour, Hong Kong is a fascinating sensory overload. A complete cultural mish-mash from centuries as a trading and financial hub, it feels like a fusion of Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, and Vietnam, with distinct cultural elements everywhere you look.

There really are few things we love more than waking up somewhere completely foreign and new, and Hong Kong is no exception, offering a unique blend of modern and traditional cultures, reshaped by years of international influence. We're here for all of it — the hustle and bustle, the contrasts, and yes, even the moments of discomfort. Packing a hefty amount of sightseeing into just a few days, we sweat through the humid air and nurse cold boba teas as we walked for miles, hopping on and off the ferry and seeking out the city's best veggie dim sum. It's an action-packed experience and a clear reminder of how much we love (and could easily spend more time in) Asia.

Tokyo, Japan - First Impressions

Following a 4-hour flight northwest from Hong Kong, we arrived in Tokyo to a city blanketed by dark clouds and heavy rain, a far cry from the sunny, hot, and sticky tropical heat of Hong Kong. After successfully navigating the Narita Airport train station (with a fair amount of help from Google Translate), we zoomed toward the city center, excited to explore this massive, ultra-modern metropolis, arriving late at our cozy boutique hotel in Shimbashi, a quiet district and our home for the next handful of days.

Our first meal in Japan still stands out as easily one of the best. Tired, hungry, and overwhelmed by options, we ended up at a tiny Udon shop near Shimbashi Station. Ordering our noodles through a streetside vending machine, we made our best guess from the selection of bowls, again with a little help from Google Translate. Less than five minutes later, we were slurping (really, everyone slurps!) up some of the best noodles we’d ever had in our life. Fresh, hot, and perfectly chewy, we stood at tables in the back next to office workers in dark suits getting a quick bite on their way home. It felt like stepping into a food documentary — authentic, special, and beyond delicious. On our way out, we snuck a peek at one of the chefs, covered in flour and rolling out a giant ball of dough, barely comprehending that we just ate handmade fresh udon noodles for under $3 a bowl.

Tokyo is exactly like we imagined and yet completely unlike anywhere we’ve ever been. With a population of nearly 38 million people, the city is somehow incredibly quiet. We learn quickly that the etiquette and cultural norms run deep here, and there’s an unspoken system to how people navigate the streets, trains, and social spaces, that seems to work effortlessly. It might be the cleanest city we’ve ever been to (apart from Singapore?), with almost no trash on the streets.

Despite its size and modernity, Tokyo has a timeless quality to it. We found ourselves wandering quiet neighborhoods, stumbling upon hidden noodle shops, and encountering beautiful temples tucked between glass towers. Tying everything together is a distinct sense of order. Everything — from the way people eat, drink, and prepare tea — is done with intention.

While we’re usually drawn to off-the-beaten-path experiences, we leaned into some of the popular sights, from the neon-lit streets of Shibuya and Shinjuku, to the immersive TeamLab Planets exhibit, meeting new local partners, joining small group tours and diving into the food culture to learn (and eat!) as much as we could.

The Nakasendo Trail - Japan's Hidden Gem

After more than a week in two of the world’s largest cities, we wanted to switch gears and explore some of Japan’s most scenic countryside, embarking on a 3-day hiking adventure along the Nakasendo Trail. This ancient route connects Tokyo to Kyoto and takes you through the stunning Kiso Valley, past old wooden post towns, bamboo forests, and towering cedar trees. Mostly off-the-beaten-path and a polar-opposite vibe from Tokyo, the trail was the perfect way to seek the quiet nature we were craving.

Our hike took us to ryokans (traditional inns), peaceful shrines, and even the occasional onsen (hot spring bath). The experience was everything we hoped for — authentic, serene, and a perfect addition to our upcoming Designed Trip.

But what really made this journey unforgettable was one particular day. Waking up at 5 am (just before Japan’s insanely early sunrise) to start the hike and avoid an incoming thunderstorm, we found ourselves completely alone on the trail for hours — walking through bamboo forests, alongside rice paddies, and under the swaying branches of wild monkeys. It was one of the most amazing hikes either of us have ever been on, so when we rolled into the tiny village of Tsumago and there was no sign of rain, we didn't want it to end.

Forever optimists, with tired legs, we decided to continue on and do the following day's 5 mile stretch as well. But about an hour in, the rain started. It was pouring, and we were immediately soaking wet, hiding beneath trees and wrapping our laptops in t-shirts to safeguard in our packs. It felt like a true adventure, with all of our belongings on our backs, slipping and sliding down ancient cobblestones and surrounded by low clouds and very few other (crazy) hikers. When we reached Magome and ducked into a tiny udon noodle restaurant, we were completely spent, soaked and starving. But boy, was that bowl of hot soup the best thing we had ever tasted!

In the end, the sights, the museums, the temples were all amazing. But it's safe to say that we’ll both remember this day (and those noodles) for the rest of our lives.

Kyoto - Finding Magic Off the Beaten Path

Before arriving in Kyoto, we were totally ready to fall in love. Every single person we talked to who had been to Japan told us how much we’d love it. The traditional neighborhoods, the countless temples and shrines, the riverside, and of course, the food. But after spending multiple days in the quiet post towns and barely-traversed paths of the Kiso Valley, the throngs of tourists and overcrowded sights hit us like a ton of bricks. Determined to see the best of the city without spending our days among a forest of selfie-sticks, we quickly decided to pivot.

So we found a bike rental shop, hopped on bikes and pedaled our way to some of the local neighborhoods and lesser known temples and shrines, doing our best to soak up the city’s magical energy in a more peaceful setting. We ended up joining a small tour of Gion after dark, when the district is far less crowded, and (bonus) we had the chance to see geishas walking to and from tea houses.

We cycled to the outskirts of town to have the best sushi of our lives in a 4-table, husband & wife-run restaurant, and we found a tiny tea house where we took part in a traditional tea ceremony, learning about the long history and important role it plays in Japanese society, especially in Kyoto. We absolutely still went to all the tourist sights to check them out, but after five days, we really figured out the best way for us to fall in love with this ultra popular destination was to get a little lost and stumble upon the less discovered corners of the city.

One of the (many) things that made this trip so special was the newness. Often times we can find connections or similar energies between countries, especially within the same region. But Japan, in particular, felt entirely it's own. The food, culture, rituals, rules, nature, and religion were all so uniquely Japanese - with so many experiences we haven't had anywhere else in the world. This made for a truly special and unique travel experience that we absolutely cannot wait to share.

If Japan is on your list, stay tuned — our new Designed Trip, will (as always), include the hotels, activities, partners, guides and travel tips that we've experienced first-hand. Keep an eye out - it's coming soon!

Happy travels!
Megan & Ryan

]]><![CDATA[Off the beaten path in the Balkans]]>Tue, 31 Oct 2023 12:33:16 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/off-the-beaten-path-in-the-balkansWe had two goals for our August escape this year: 1) check out some places we’ve never been before and 2) spend more time by the sea. With a little over a month to work with and a road trip in mind, we still weren’t sure where to go. One region, surprisingly close to our home in Lucca (at least as far as European road trips go) that we’d been contemplating for years yet still felt foreign and strangely elusive, came to mind - the Balkans.

We’ve spent time in Slovenia and Croatia and loved both countries, but it felt like we had just scratched the surface. We wanted to get a feel for the differences in cultures and languages that make this region so textured, varied and vibrant. We also wanted to separate the missable from the unmissable, hunting down the coolest spots and best hidden gems to share with other travelers.

Decision made, we jumped into our (mostly) trusty Fiat 500L, packed to the brim with everything we needed for a 5-week road trip through the Balkans with our furry friend Mac in tow.

Heading northeast through the Italian countryside, passing Bologna and Venice on our 6-hour drive, we crossed the border into Slovenia and headed to our first stop, Ljubljana, an impossibly charming capital which straddles the idyllic Ljubljanica River, smack dab in the middle of the country.

Ljubljana, Slovenia

We had been to Ljubljana before around Christmas time, but August has a whole different vibe. This city is hands-down one of the most underrated in Europe.

It’s gorgeous - with leafy cobbled streets, cool cafes, a great outdoor market, hilltop castle, and plenty of places for riverside strolls. Within an hour is Lake Bled, Predjama Castle (yeah, the one that’s built into a cave), and loads of national parks with hiking, rafting, canyoning and camping.

It’s beautiful, easy, and a welcoming entry into the Balkans (although we still couldn't correctly pronounce Ljubljana to save our lives!). Next up, Serbia!

Novi Sad, Serbia

Given that one of our goals for the summer was to spend more time by the sea, you might ask why we chose to visit a landlocked former communist country with a torrid past. It’s a good question with a pretty simple answer… we’d never been here before and didn’t have any expectations. Both things that, in our opinion, are often the starting point for incredibly interesting, if not perfect, travel experiences.

Nearly 6 hours west of Ljubljana, Novi Sad is naturally beautiful, inexpensive, and has surprisingly tasty wine. The language is, of course, Slavic and uses both the Latin and Cyrillic alphabets (the only country in Europe to use two alphabets). Street and shop signs feel quite foreign as a result, but then nearly everyone speaks English.

The architecture is a mix of Austro Hungarian and brutalist communist buildings, making the town feel a bit of a mish mash, with swanky bars and restaurants sitting next to decades old shops, often in really bad shape.

The Danube river is loved and celebrated, with locals using the banks like a beach. Serbia is a popular party destination for Europeans due to its unassailable combination of cheap drinks, clubs, and electronic music festivals. A strange but welcomed addition to the party culture - popcorn. Really, it’s a big deal here. There seems to be a stand every 30 feet with delicious movie-style popcorn. Why? We never found out, as our mouths were too full of popcorn to ask anyone.

Overall, Novi Sad had all the ingredients of a place we would love, but we still didn’t love it. There was something about the energy (or perhaps the politics?) that didn’t feel right and wasn’t enough to outweigh the super cheap prices. Bottom line, it was an interesting experience with lots of memories we’ll likely never forget, but not necessarily somewhere we’ll be visiting again soon.

Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

We weren’t entirely sure what to expect of our time in Sarajevo, but as we were driving away, Ryan said “Everyone should come here.”

This small city, 5 hours southwest of Novi Sad, is best known for definitive and horrific events, but the people, and the culture, are a testament to humanity’s strength and will to persevere.

It was here that Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, was assassinated by Gavrilo Princip on June 28, 1914, sparking what would become the First World War.

It was also here that the world watched as 11,000 people were ruthlessly killed between 1992 and 1995 in what became the longest siege on a capital city in history, and the impact of this war is still incredibly apparent today.

The images of the Bosnian war are likely the first things to pop into your mind when you hear the name of this city. Both of us were kids at the time - 9 and 10 - and the news coverage was our first experience of what a war actually looks like. Scarred by shrapnel, bullet holes, and trauma, the city, the people, and their stories are a testament to the horrors of war.

But the people of Sarajevo don’t want their future to be defined by the city's past. Sarajevo has become a vibrant modern city, with craft breweries, great coffee, markets, restaurants and so much more. It’s beautiful, surrounded by the Dinaric Alps with the Miljacka River passing through the city. The people are welcoming, generous and proud of their home and what they have created in the short time since the siege.

Ryan was right, everyone should come here.

Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

The 2-hour drive from Sarajevo to Mostar was mind-blowingly beautiful - a little sneak peek to what we were about to experience in the city itself.

With stone bridges, hidden corners, riverside cafes and surrounding mountains, Mostar is straight out of a fairytale. The most famous old part of the city is small - like, really small - and can be easily explored in a few hours, making it a popular day trip from Dubrovnik (1.5 hours away). To say it simply, we really liked it here. We walked along the river, drank beers from a local craft microbrewery, learned about the city’s history, and enjoyed a couple of nice dinners out. Most notably, we were introduced to Bosnian burek, a much loved stuffed pastry which is absolutely worthy of the hype!

All in all, having spent a week in Bosnia and Herzegovina, we can’t help feeling that travelers miss out on an incredible experience by not visiting this wonderful country. Our time here provided the much needed context to better understand the history, the people, and the culture, and we absolutely recommend putting Bosnia on your travel wishlist.

Kotor, Montenegro

When most people think of Montenegro, they think of Kotor Bay. And rightfully so… it’s pretty epic. The steep mountains seem to crash into the calm, glassy, lake-like water of the narrow bay below.

While the last couple of weeks felt like traveling, this finally felt like vacation. We spent our days swimming in the mornings, working during the afternoon heat, and staring blankly at the sheer beauty of the place in the moments in between. At night, we watched the mountains turn pink, and enormous cruise ships sail by as we drank cold lagers and made simple dinners in our apartment. We felt so relaxed here and could stay longer, but it was time to hit the road for the 2-hour coastal drive south.

Ulcinj, Montenegro

In the world of travel, sometimes you stumble on a place that is an absolute gem and you can’t wait to tell people about it. Unfortunately, Ulcinj wasn’t one of those places.

We had been trying to find a second destination in Montenegro beyond the well-known Kotor Bay and landed on Ulcinj after hearing some positive things. Sadly, it wasn’t all rocky coastlines and epic sunsets. The streets are littered with trash, the water is undrinkable, and there are, seemingly, zero fresh fruits or vegetables in the whole town. Pair those not-so-awesome qualities with an overactive party scene headed up by the extras from The Fast & The Furious franchise and it’s fair to say it just wasn’t our vibe. The cherry on top was a rough bout of food poisoning, which, Ulcinj, was not very endearing.

It’s not often that we feel compelled to leave a place, but this was one of those occasions. We decided to chalk it up to experience, and move on…

Dubrovnik, Croatia

We couldn’t drive up the Dalmatian Coast and not stop in Dubrovnik!

Also known as the ‘pearl of the Adriatic’, the famous walled city is simply stunning - no wonder it’s the most visited in the country. The calm waters are perfect for swimming and kayaking, with epic views of the coastal cliffs and hidden caves. Inland, the countryside is beautiful, with vineyards, ancient olive groves and medieval watermills. Within the city itself, the historic walls are like traveling back in time, and cliffside bars and great restaurants which (almost) make the crowds bearable. We always tell travelers that, although it can be busy and feel somewhat contrived at times, Dubrovnik is a place to visit at least once in your lifetime. It is spectacular.

Marina, Croatia

This was our favorite stop of the summer. 4 hours north along the coast from Dubrovnik and only a few miles from Split, Marina is a beautiful, well-kept secret.

This coastline - between Split and Zadar - is hands-down one of our favorite places in the world. The water is warm, clear and perfectly calm due to all the coves and islets off the coast. But the best part is that so many of the villages just aren’t real ‘destinations’, they’re small seaside towns with nice people, a laid-back vibe, and zero pretentiousness - just perfect.

We rented the most wonderfully simple and comfortable apartment right on the edge of the sea. Our front door opened onto views of giant fishing boats that would go out each night and return early in the morning. We spent our time sleeping in, swimming in the morning, working in the afternoon, and swimming again as the sun went down.

On our second day, we experienced the generosity and hospitality of the locals. Our neighbor walked up with a MASSIVE swordfish, inviting us to lunch. We ate the freshest grilled fish with his whole family before our daily sunset swim.

That was summer at its very best, and we wish it didn’t have to end.

Pula, Croatia

The final stop on our 5-week summer vacation was Pula, a near 6-hour drive north. This small city, on the tip of the Istria Peninsula, is home to the only remaining Roman amphitheater with four preserved side towers, along with an absolutely amazing coastline.

We had the added joy of spending our time here with our best mates from London (which was an unfair advantage for Pula in our destination-ranking system). We left the car parked pretty much our entire time there, opting to keep it local for our last few days of vacation. We rented a tiny - like, really tiny - boat for a morning, practiced our diving skills, lounged in the sun; drank beers on the pebble beaches, jogged the undulating coastline, told stories as the sun set, and relaxed with our friends. Just a couple hours from Italy, it was the perfect end to our adventure through the Balkans.

If you’re feeling inspired and want to explore the Balkans, check out our 11-day Designed Trip to Slovenia & Croatia where you’ll discover Ljubljana, Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik. If you want to go a little more off the beaten path, or have different destinations in mind, get in touch and we’ll work with you to plan the perfect Custom Trip.

]]><![CDATA[Life in Europe vs. the U.S., 5 years later]]>Wed, 26 May 2021 13:29:03 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/life-in-europe-vs-the-usFive years ago, newly engaged, with a newly incorporated business and a shiny new Italian passport in hand, we packed up six suitcases and boarded a one-way flight to Spain. Through a combination of adventurous spirit and complete naivete, we landed in Valencia, a city we’d visited once before, for less than a week. Three and a half years later (clearly haven forgotten how hard the first year in a new country was), we moved again, to our now home in Lucca, Italy.

Covid time vortex aside, it’s shocking that five years have gone by. But at the same time, life in Europe is life for us now. It’s where we’ve grown our business, gotten married, met some of our closest friends, adopted our dog, and bought our first house. As with all major milestones or anniversaries (euroversary?) it’s impossible not to reflect on all the ups and downs, challenges, adventures and lessons learned over the last five years.

The number one takeaway? The bigger the risk, the bigger the reward. Starting over, understanding new cultures, learning two languages, making new friends... it’s all been a challenge and a half. But (as we were all reminded last year) life is short and it’s only what you make it. So, for us, every single second has been worth it (vale la pena!), and we have every intention of continuing to push ourselves and take risks for the next five years, and the five years after that.

So what’s different about life in (southern) Europe vs. the U.S.?

Pace
Everything you’ve heard is true. Siestas, post-lunch passeggiatas, long, sunny aperitivo hours. Both Spaniards and Italians know how to slow down, open a bottle of wine, relax and enjoy life… which is wonderful until the moment you’re trying to get something done (home renovations, car registration, dental work... anything). There’s a “domani, domani” attitude that makes every task/project last faaaaar longer than it needs to. More often than not, we miss the efficiency of the USA. Life here is relaxing, but patience is key.

Money
We never realized how unique America’s capitalist-centric society is until we lived in Europe. Both Spain and Italy have a very large middle class, resulting in a general feeling that everyone (or the vast majority of people) are in the same boat. People live in generally the same size houses (read: small) and have a somewhat similar financial status. Salaries are far lower than in the U.S but pay a living wage, and the people in the highest income brackets are heavily taxed. In general, there's a different relationship with money - it’s more about having enough to feel secure and have a high quality of life, and less about the opportunity to become a billionaire.

Travel
Perhaps one of the main reasons (in addition to the awesome free healthcare) we love living in Europe: travel is easy, cheap and accessible. The continent is small, and within a few hours you can be almost anywhere. Having a large handful of different countries/cultures/languages at our fingertips is a dream come true, and quite different than international travel from the U.S., which is usually a bigger and pricier trip.

Infrastructure
Newsflash. Things are old here. Like, really old. Strolling down cobbled streets past 500 year-old churches may be lovely when you’re vacationing in Europe, but living in an ancient city is a whole different ballgame. When it’s hot, the streets of Valencia often smell like sewage because the sewage system is ancient and has to navigate underground Roman ruins. Here in Italy, we had a pipe break in our bathroom and watched as the contractor jack-hammered a six foot-wide hole into our tiled stone wall trying to locate it. We don’t have screens on our windows or a drier for our clothes (we literally haven’t had fluffy towels in five years). Let’s just say, there have been many, many times when we’ve missed how everything just works - and works well - in the U.S.

Work
As privileged college grads, we were pretty used to the idea that we could find a good job anywhere we went. Before moving to Europe, we left management and director positions and thought we could easily figure something out while we worked on growing Cohica. A few months later, we found ourselves teaching English at a kids summer camp for $125 a week - talk about a dose of humility! Good jobs (which we did find later) are not easy to come by. This is why most people find a secure and well-paying job and stick with it, sometimes for their whole career. But work here is different. It's more of a means to an end, and who you are is not what you do. Life doesn't center around work, and very few people are impressed by a fancy resume or title (we tried when we first moved, and people literally did not care).

Food
Spain and Italy (especially Italy!) have incredible food. Not just the cuisine, but the ingredients themselves. The produce is unbelievably fresh and local (usually from our region), and meals are prepared based on what’s in season. While we sometimes yearn for strawberries in the middle of winter, we’ve learned to embrace seasonal eating. It means that the food we eat is always changing, always fresh, and almost always sustainably grown and distributed. That being said, one thing that’s severely missing: fast-casual. The U.S. offers convenience and options… SO many options! If we’re lazy and don’t feel like cooking, it’s pizza for dinner. At least once a week, one of us yearns for a burrito. Enough said.

People/Culture
While Europe is full of different nationalities, there is a European culture that runs through every country. We love having friends from Sweden, England, Scotland, and Portugal, but multi-national doesn’t necessarily equal multi-cultural, and we miss the diversity that is found in (many parts of) the U.S. Italian culture is beautiful, but is largely based on tradition and the way things have always been done. When people from all different parts of the world bring different perspectives, foods, and traditions to one place, you naturally get a more interesting, forward thinking and modern society.

People often ask us if we miss the U.S. The answer is always, yes, of course. It will always be our home, and there’s a serious comfort with the places we’ve always known. We miss our families and our friends, the empowerment of communicating freely, and the ease of knowing how things work. And Mexican food. We really miss Mexican food. But life in southern Europe has offered many things that we were looking for - challenge, community, travel, work life balance and a very high quality of life. The low cost of living and free public healthcare allows us the freedom to comfortably work for ourselves and travel as much as we can. And the gelato doesn't hurt either.

]]><![CDATA[How to be the best (traveler) you can be in 2021]]>Fri, 26 Mar 2021 14:51:25 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/how-to-be-the-best-traveler-you-can-be-in-2021When we started Cohica five years ago, amid a nearly year long trip around the world, one of our main goals was to spotlight sustainable and socially responsible travel. I was just two years removed from an MBA in Sustainable Business, and Megan had just left her Director-level position at the Fairmont Kea Lani Maui where she’d worked closely on the hotel’s burgeoning sustainability initiatives. Along the way, we found ourselves constantly asking how the life-changing travel experiences we were having could have an even more positive effect on the communities that served as their foundation. So we started to meet with local business owners and sustainable tourism program managers, curious as to how international travel and tourism could provide long-term, sustainable economic development, preserve local cultures, and minimize environmental degradation. We wrote story after story, promoting responsible travel companies and, in 2016, when we first launched Cohica as a travel design agency, made sustainable travel a primary focus of our growing business.

Fast forward five years and we continue to focus on these vitally important aspects of international travel and tourism. Although we always choose environmentally sustainable travel first, we’ve recognized that some of the greatest effect travelers can have on the places they visit is through socially responsible practices that are inherent to a more culturally centered type of travel. Environmental sustainability in travel is crucial and there are a variety of things tourists can do, but the scale at which these issues must be addressed relegates any real change to large businesses, industries, and government policy. When it comes to social responsibility though, travelers, as a collective, have the power to create a fundamental shift toward a world of more ethical, sustainable, and positively impactful travel. When culture is placed at the forefront of a travel experience, there is a natural movement toward the types of trips that have the potential to create long-term value for the communities and stakeholders they involve. And in a year marked by a devastating pandemic, in which thousands of travel (and travel-related) companies have gone out of business, taking the following steps when you go on your next trip will go a long way to help tourism professionals, small businesses, and communities get back on their feet.

Spend your $ at Small & ‘Micro’ Businesses

In destinations around the world, small and micro businesses make up a significant part of the tourism infrastructure. Here in Italy, more than 95% of SMEs (small and medium-sized enterprises) are micro businesses, with less than 10 employees. These types of businesses almost always have fewer resources, especially financial, and receive less government support in times of economic crisis. Their earnings don’t go to shareholders, nor do their CEOs receive annual bonuses in the millions.

What all this means is that when you stay at a small boutique hotel, eat at a local restaurant, visit the farmer’s market, or buy from a small shop, the money you’re spending goes directly to the owners of these businesses, and therefore to actual members of the community you’re visiting. There’s no better way to make sure your dollars get in the pockets of those who need them.

Stay in Boutique Hotels & Book Direct

A handful of multinational corporations account for more than half of the world’s hotel rooms (source) and the industry continues to consolidate behind the top hotel groups. Although there are many wonderful, corporate-owned or managed hotels that employ countless people across the world, dollars spent at these properties rarely go far toward supporting the local economy.

So instead of staying at a Marriott, choose a boutique, locally-owned hotel and book direct. More often than not, these types of properties offer a clearer view into local culture, along with a true sense of place. When you book directly with the hotel (or with us, as we do), you ensure that one of the many massive OTAs (online travel agencies) isn’t skimming 10-20% off the top of the property’s earnings. Even better, you're also likely to benefit from a more flexible change and/or cancellation policy.

Celebrate Culture & The Arts

There may be no industry in the world that’s been hit harder by the pandemic than the arts, and what better way to learn, while celebrating local culture, than visiting a museum, gallery, historic monument, or music venue. Take a language class, go to a concert (as soon as they're back!), discover street art with a local guide, or check out a craft market. It’s one of the fastest ways to enrich your travel experience and really get to know a place, while supporting the people and communities behind these industries.

Eat Authentic & Local

As popular as it’s become to eat local, sticking to the same strategy when traveling is even more important. By choosing small, locally-owned restaurants, exploring traditional cuisine, and buying regional foods, you’ll make sure the food you’re eating is sustainable and continues to play an important role in the food traditions of the place you’re visiting. The more authentic your food, the more you’ll understand about what makes each community so unique. Take a trip to Valencia, Spain, and you’ll see why paella made there is unlike anywhere else in the world. Or visit the Ligurian coast to understand how true pesto genovese cannot be replicated by jars in the supermarket. When you’re done eating, buy some of the foods you love most and take them home as a souvenir to further support local farmers, shops, restaurants, and all those who work with them.

At Cohica we strive to better connect travelers to the places they visit through amazing cultural travel experiences that are socially responsible. We design all of our Custom Travel Plans, Designed Trips, and Guided Trips to include boutique hotels and activities run by small, local businesses, while emphasizing experiences that highlight food, culture, and the arts. After an enormously difficult year, there is at long last, a light at the end of the tunnel. We can’t wait to begin anew, helping you to explore and celebrate the myriad of beautiful places, and the communities behind them, throughout the world.

]]><![CDATA[Where to Travel in 2021 - Our Top 8 Destinations]]>Wed, 17 Feb 2021 12:01:52 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/where-to-travel-in-2021-our-top-8-destinations

After a devastating year for international travel in 2020, there are promising signs for a return to exploration and adventure in 2021. Nations across the globe have begun mass vaccination campaigns with hopes of mitigating and eventually eliminating COVID-19. In the U.S especially, vaccination efforts are quickly ramping up, with plans to inoculate every American by August as the number of cases, deaths and hospitalizations continue to decrease each day.

A not-so-insignificant part of these efforts will be to create safe and healthy travel experiences for international tourists. Since late December, Delta and Alitalia have been offering “Covid-free” flights from Atlanta to Rome, allowing visitors to bypass quarantine upon arrival in Italy. With the addition of coordinated vaccine or testing programs like this, we’re very optimistic that European borders will open to American visitors by summertime.

While we hope international travel will be completely secure in the latter half of the year, there will surely be some lingering Covid concerns among travelers. After more than a year of social distancing, mask wearing, and plenty of self-isolation, we’ll all want to feel safe and comfortable as we explore new places and share new experiences abroad. That being said, our criteria for selecting the best destinations and travel experiences are, (1) Outdoor experiences and natural beauty, (2) Effective local health and safety protocols, and of course (3) Low (or no) infection rates. With these factors in mind, we’ve crafted a list of our top eight destinations for 2021.

1. Portugal - The Azores

We’ve written a lot about the Azores and how much we absolutely love this Portuguese archipelago located in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. It’s truly one of the most naturally beautiful places in the world, with a charming culture and kind, welcoming people.

There are an endless number of outdoor activities in the Azores, from hiking and kayaking Volcanic lakes, to deep sea fishing, to mountain biking through rainforests, and dipping in natural hot springs under a waterfall. To date the Azores have had 1,192 total COVID cases with only 18 deaths. In addition to a robust national health care system the Portuguese Government has implemented thorough health and safety protocols.

Check out our Designed Trip to the Azores or contact us about a Custom Travel Plan to Portugal

2. Chile & Argentina - Patagonia

There are few places in the world more remote than Patagonia, located at the southernmost tip of South America. A region that stretches between parts of both Argentina and Chile, Patagonia offers an abundance of breathtaking natural landscapes and awe inspiring sights, such as Torres del Paine National Park (Chile), Tierra del Fuego National Park (Argentina), and Los Glaciares National Park (Argentina).

While both Chile and Argentina have seen their fair share of Covid cases, both have implemented significant health and safety measures to tackle the virus. While the number of tourists who visit places Patagonia has grown over the years, this region is still relatively less-traveled than many other destinations. Torres del Paine had approximately 250,000 visitors in 2017 - a tiny number when compared to somewhere like Yosemite National Park, which received 4.5 million visitors in 2019.

Contact us about a Custom Travel Plan to Patagonia!

3. Sri Lanka

A small island nation set just off the southern tip of India, Sri Lanka is a geographically diverse country, full of stunning scenery, amazing wildlife, wonderful culture and centuries of complex history. With a growing tourism infrastructure and super affordable transportation and hotel rates, it’s a great destination for all types of travel budgets. (We were there this time last year and often find ourselves dreaming of terraced tea fields, open-air trains, remote white sand beaches, coconut dal, and wild elephants).

Having banned international travel starting in spring of 2020, Sri Lanka remained relatively untouched by Covid for the first part of last year. A surge in cases beginning in early October has persisted through January, however, the official total number of cases is still just over 60,000.

Contact us about a Custom Travel Plan to Sri Lanka, and keep an eye out for a brand new Designed Trip, coming soon!

4. Vietnam - Ninh Binh

Vietnam is hands-down one of our favorite places in the world. It’s unbeatable combination of delicious cuisine, charming people and culture, and beautiful landscapes make for diverse and unique travel experiences. The Ninh Binh Province, located in northern Vietnam, is the perfect destination for 2021. A region full of historic Buddhist temples, wondrous caves, and plenty of hiking, it’s best known for steep karst mountains that tower over beautiful green river valleys.

In the early days of the pandemic, Vietnam closed its borders to international travel and tourism, taking an incredibly serious approach to stopping the spread of Covid within the country. To this point there have been less than 1,600 total cases, with new daily cases remaining in the single digits in recent weeks. Having experience managing SARS in 2003, Vietnam’s Covid response has been widely hailed as a success, leading to its position as the top performing Asian economy of 2020. When it does reopen its borders to international travel, we’ll be some of the first ones to visit.

Check out our Designed Trip to Vietnam or contact us about a Custom Travel Plan!

5. Iceland

The breathtaking natural landscapes of Iceland might just be the perfect post-Covid travel experience. A sparsely populated country (there are just over 350,000 inhabitants) is a great place to explore independently, whether for only a few days or multiple weeks. The Ring Road, which circles the entire island, makes for an ideal road trip passing glacial fjords, jaw-dropping waterfalls, black sand beaches, and quaint villages.

Through stringent health and safety measures, Iceland has managed to remain relatively unscathed by COVID, with just over 6,000 total cases and only 29 Covid-related deaths to date. As soon as international travel to the Schengen Zone is permitted, we think Iceland will be an ideal adventure destination.

Contact us about a Custom Travel Plan to Iceland!

6. Greece - Rhodes & Symi

This past September, as the number of COVID cases remained low across most of Europe, we were fortunate enough to spend an incredible week on the islands of Rhodes and Symi, part of the Dodecanese in the eastern Mediterranean Sea. Aside from the wonderful archaeological sites, beautiful ancient towns, and long, intriguing history, the Dodecanese islands are surrounded by some of the most amazing water we’ve ever seen. The warm, salty azure sea gently laps onto Symi’s deep bays and hidden coves, and Rhodes’ stunning pebble beaches. It’s truly a magical place.

If there weren’t enough reasons to visit Greece in 2021, the country’s relatively low case numbers and overall success in managing the pandemic make it an even more appealing destination. New infections have decreased significantly since Greece’s only real ‘surge’ in November and the country’s vaccination campaign has been underway since late December.

Check out our Designed Trip to Greece or contact us about a Custom Travel Plan to the Dodecanese!

7. Laos

A mountainous country bordered by Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, Myanmar, and China, Laos has been part of the Southeast Asia backpacker circuit for decades now. Yet it’s remained significantly less touristy than most of its neighboring countries, with only about 4 million international visitors annually (compared to Thailand’s nearly 40 million). Known for its stunning natural landscapes, Buddhist culture (with temples and monasteries dotting the country), and French colonial architecture in the capital of Vientiane, it’s really a must-visit destination in SE Asia.

Along with much of the region, Laos has largely avoided Covid, with total cases in just double-digits since the beginning of the pandemic. Over 108,000 Covid tests have been performed since January of last year, with only 45 positive results so far.

Contact us about a Custom Travel Plan to Laos!

8. Slovenia

Sandwiched between Croatia, Austria, Italy and Hungary, Slovenia is more than just the home of Luka and Melania. This mostly land-locked nation is just about as quaint as European countries get. The capital, Ljubljana, has a charming historic center with a mix of baroque and 20th-century architecture that straddles the calm Ljubljanica River. The rest of this little country is full of beautiful mountains, serene lakes, and unique castles. We spent nearly a week here in December 2019 with Ryan’s parents and can’t wait to go back.

Slovenia was almost untouched by Covid until the fall, but has managed to flatten the curve significantly since then. Cases have come down significantly in the last two months and its vaccination campaign is beginning to ramp up.

Contact us about a Custom Travel Plan to Slovenia!

When international travel returns later this year, we think there will be no better places to explore than these countries, which have made significant efforts to manage COVID and offer unbeatable natural landscapes. Getting outside, taking in beautiful scenery, and discovering new cultures with the peace of mind that the virus is in check (and that we’re all vaccinated… hopefully!) is exactly what we’re looking forward to in 2021. What about you?

]]><![CDATA[Our 2021 Travel Wishlist]]>Tue, 12 Jan 2021 15:31:18 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/our-2021-travel-wishlistWe have a tradition. Every year during the first few weeks of January, we sit down together to create our travel wishlist for the year ahead. It’s become somewhat of a ritual - opening a good bottle of wine, reflecting on last year’s adventures, breaking out the new year’s calendar and consulting our travel fund to determine which trips we can make a reality. But this year is different.

Until last March, we hadn’t gone more than six weeks without traveling. Now, after nearly nine months with very little exploration, we’ve been reminded that open borders and cultural integration is a privilege that we’ll never again take for granted. The absence of travel has slapped us in the face with the realization of how much we love it. It’s not just our hobby, or our business, or a good vacation or a way to escape everyday life. It enriches us, opens our minds and brings us joy. The rush of excitement and anticipation we feel when we touch down in a new country… well, there’s no feeling in the world like it. This, combined with nurturing the friendships and relationships that are most important, is our focus in 2021. So with new perspective (and a lot of time on our hands), we’ve created our 2021 Travel Wishlist. And we are ready to go.

2020 Recap

Not surprisingly, we didn’t check off the majority of the destinations on our 2020 Wishlist. Pre-pandemic (a lifetime ago) we traveled through Malaysia, Vietnam and Sri Lanka for five glorious weeks, meeting activity partners and visiting boutique hotels to include in our Custom and Designed Trips. Mid-way through our trip, we heard rumblings of a virus spreading in China, and began wearing masks at major airports and passing through temperature checks at customs. Like everyone else in the world, we never imagined how the next 11 months would unfold.

Fast forward to summer 2020, when Italy successfully managed the virus and we had the opportunity to travel to each of the destinations that will be included in our inaugural Italian Origins small group trip: Florence, Chianti, Cinque Terre, Parma, and Lake Como. In early September with case numbers still low, we hopped over to the islands of Rhodos and Symi, in Greece, where we spent a week basking in the sunshine, eating a stupid amount of feta cheese and feeling sincere gratitude for the escape. We were welcomed home with a (free!) COVID test, fall weather and, soon after, Europe’s second wave. And the rest is history - we’ve been in our living room ever since.

2020 Wishlist 2019 Wishlist 2018 Wishlist 2017 Wishlist

The 2021 List

Goal #1 - (Safely) reunite with family & friends

U.S.A.
We haven’t been to the states in what feels like forever - January 2019(!). COVID threw a wrench in our plans to visit friends and family last year so this coming June, after our parents get the vaccine (and us too, fingers crossed) we’ll be taking off for a long overdue trip to both Colorado and California. A couple of weeks drinking good beer and spending some QT with family in Boulder before we fly west to Sonoma, where we'll meet up with our mates from London for camping in Yosemite and a road trip along Highway 1. (Quick note: If anyone wants to come to Italy to hang out with our pup Mac for a few weeks, holla!).

Spain
After living in Valencia for 3 ½ years, Spain became our home away from home. We miss our friends, our old neighborhood, El Carmen, and long runs through the Turia. Not to mention tapas, tasty Tempranillo, the beach, and that glorious Spanish sun. At this point we’re just a little bit nostalgic for our old home, so as soon as the time comes, we’ll be hopping on a quick flight back to Valencia to relive old times and reunite with our amigos.

Goal #2 - Visit 5 new countries (bonus if they’re inexpensive)

Belgrade, Serbia
We heard some rumblings back in 2019 about Belgrade. It was a place we’d probably never considered going before, but various travel blogs and websites were claiming that it might now be the trendiest city in Europe. It’s not supposed to be the most beautiful city in the world, but the combination of cool coffee houses, socialist housing blocks, and the rejuvenated Savamala quarter along the Sava river, make it a gloriously enticing 2021 destination. For us, it’s new, different, and unexpected. And we’re all about it.

Lviv, Ukraine
Lviv, located in western Ukraine, is considered to be one of the country’s most interesting cities, with a blend of Polish and Austro-Hungarian architecture, as well as influences from both Western and Eastern Europe. It also happens to be quite an inexpensive city with non-stop, round trip flights from Pisa for less than $100, making it the perfect candidate for an interesting long weekend. What’s not to like about that?

Krakow, Poland
Krakow has been on our travel wishlist for what seems like an eternity, but somehow we haven’t gotten there yet. Set near the border of the Czech Republic, it was spared major bombing during World War II and it’s medieval center and Jewish Ghetto are well preserved to this day. It was on the list last year, but then stupid COVID happened. So, here’s hoping 2021 is the year we finally get to visit this historic and beautiful city.

The Adriatic Coast, Croatia
In 2015, after nearly four months traveling through Southeast Asia and Europe, we landed in Split, Croatia. Within a few hours we knew this was somewhere we’d visit again. Split, and the entire Adriatic Coast of Croatia, offers one of the world’s best combinations of history, architecture, and natural beauty. The islands straddling the coast ensure some of the calmest, most serene waters we’ve ever experienced and the tile-roofed stone buildings are the perfect backdrop for soaking up the strong southern European sun. Now that we’re in road-trip-range of Croatia, a 2021 repeat visit to this stunning coastline is definitely in the cards. And while we’re in the area, we may just head east to...

Mostar & Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Ever since planning a trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina for clients in 2018, we’ve been dying to explore Mostar and Sarajevo. Mostar, located in the southwest corner of the country and just a short drive from Dubrovnik, is a historic city most known for the enchanting Stari Most (Old Bridge) that arcs high above Neretva River below. Sarajevo, the country’s capital, has a complex history in large part due to its religious and cultural diversity. The place where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914, instigating the first World War and was under siege for nearly four years during the Bosnian War in the early 90’s. Needless to say, we’re excited to learn more and experience the one-of-a-kind diversity of this unique country.

Kotor & Budva, Montenegro
The last stop on what promises to be a long, but beautiful road trip full of new experiences, is Kotor & Budva, coastal gems in the small Balkan nation of Montenegro. The Bay of Kotor is unlike many others in this part of the world, winding its way inland past steep limestone fjord-like cliffs, with the quaint town of Kotor at one end. Next, we’ll drive a few miles south, to the town of Budva, which hugs the Adriatic’s rocky shores. Known for its beaches, Venetian stone walls, and nightlife, we hope to explore pretty much everything but the nightlife. No more raves for these 30-somethings, sadly.

Goal #3 - Get to know Italy on a deeper level

Puglia, Sicily, & Sardinia, Italy
Although we’ve spent a ton of time traveling through Italy, we're really looking forward to exploring some of the not-so-well-known spots in 2021. We’ll start with the south (again, on last year’s list). Puglia, the “heel” of Italy’s boot, offers a stark contrast to our home region of Tuscany. It’s full of amazing, whitewashed towns like Lecce, Alberobello, Otranto, and Polignano a Mare, as well as incredible beaches and lots of sun. We’re not sure whether we’ll drive, fly, or take the ferry to Sicily, the largest Mediterranean island set just off the “toe” of the boot, but are sure the Sicilian culture will offer a lot to discover that’s vastly different than central and northern Italy (including grantias for breakfast, which we're 100% here for). Sardinia is also an obvious choice for us - just a short flight southwest from Pisa, to either Alghero or Cagliari and home to some of Europe’s best beaches.

2021, we're ready for ya! Here's to a brighter year full of exploration! Happy New Year, and happy (safe) travels to you.

]]><![CDATA[Italy's Second Wave & Travel in 2021]]>Mon, 07 Dec 2020 11:34:13 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/italys-second-wave-travel-in-2021The Second Wave & A New Lockdown

It’s officially December and 2020 is almost over. After nearly six months of relative normalcy, Italy returned to various states of lockdown a month ago. The strict quarantine measures of March and April precluded extremely low COVID numbers throughout the course of the summer, allowing us to travel across four different regions, meeting with partners and visiting hotels in preparation for our Italian Origins small group trip next fall. In September, we flew to the Greek Isles and spent a week hiking and swimming all over the tiny island of Symi and discovering the thickly layered history of Rhodes. It was an amazing trip and we’re thankful that Italy, and Europe’s, serious response to the pandemic in those early months allowed us the opportunity to travel a bit this year.

But here we are again. A second wave has swept over Europe and Italy has once again responded with significant measures. We started as a Zona Gialla (yellow zone) in early November - the lowest in severity of Italy’s three-tier zone system - but became a Zona Arancia (orange zone) within a week, and then a Zona Rossa (red zone) just a few days later.

Italy's Lockdown. What it's like.

Italy’s national measures include a mandatory mask mandate, limited travel, a national curfew from 10 pm to 5 am, and some general travel restrictions. Tuscany just became an orange zone again, after having been a red zone for multiple weeks, meaning we’ve only been allowed to leave the house to go to the grocery store, pharmacy, or for exercise (only on foot or by bike from our house). We can go out for other needs or to go to other stores, but only with a ‘self-certification’ form, detailing the purpose of our ‘trip.’ We can only leave our comune (town) if the store we’re going to isn’t available in our town. Restaurants and bars are open for take-out only. There’s definitely no going to friend’s houses or visiting extended family.

The Result

For the most part, people seem to be following the rules. Everyone here wears a mask and we rarely see more than a couple of people together at a time. Once again, these measures are starting to show results. While the death toll has been devastating here (Italy has the world’s second oldest population), the number of daily new cases has gone from ~40,000 to less than 20,000 in recent days. Unlike our neighbors to the north in England, the government has just announced that travel during the Christmas holidays will be restricted as well. It’s not exactly a thrilling announcement and we fully expect this to be our most boring Christmas in the history of time, but it’s reassuring to know how seriously the government is taking the situation, especially with 2021 right around the corner.

- It’s definitely not an overstatement to say that this New Year’s Eve will be the most excited we’ve been for a new year in a long, long time!

Signs of Hope

The most inspiring news of the past few weeks has been the announcements of various COVID vaccines and the prospect of a return to normal in 2021. Italy has announced a plan to begin a major vaccination campaign beginning in January and has already secured 200 million doses through contracts with some of the most promising candidates. That’s enough to vaccinate 100 million people - plenty for a country with a population of 60 million. The vaccine will be free to all residents and the goal is to vaccinate a significant portion of the country within the first 6 months of 2021.

2021 Travel

We know there’s a lot that’s still up in the air, but we’re feeling hopeful that 2021 will be a great year for travel, especially in the latter half of the year. We’re already planning a trip back to the states in June, visiting our families in Boulder and Sonoma, and planning an epic California road trip with some of our best friends who’ll be flying over from the UK. Flights, for the moment, are very inexpensive and nearly every airline is offering free changes through the end of 2021, offering some much appreciated peace of mind when booking airfare. We’re hoping that the strict measures Italy and other European nations are taking will give us the opportunity for spring travel as well - possibly a weekend in Poland or the Ukraine, both on last year’s untouched Travel Wishlist.

Italy’s serious approach to fighting COVID has also given us confidence that next year’s Italian Origins Guided Trip will go ahead without any problems. A 2021 resurgence will be vital to an economy like Italy's, where it's been estimated that the tourism industry will lose more than $100 billion before the pandemic is over. As a country with a massive number of really small businesses (~95% of Italy's businesses are considered "micro," with 9 employees or less), many of which are part of the travel sector, we're looking forward to being part of the recovery effort. We've built some great partnerships here and will be proud to travel across four regions with a small group next September, supporting each of them along the way.

In the meantime, we’ll be hanging tight at home, working on new Designed Trips, cooking up new recipes, reading, writing, running, and riding our bikes on sunny winter days. We’re thankful that our family and friends have been able to stay healthy throughout this horrible year. And we very much hope that everyone reading this is happy, healthy, and safe as well.

]]><![CDATA[Exploring Italian Origins in Parma]]>Fri, 25 Sep 2020 09:42:53 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/exploring-italian-origins-in-parmaLively and bustling streets criss-cross Parma’s Romanesque architecture and pastel-hued buildings. Its status as a university city is to thank for this, but we’re not here for class. No, we’re here for the food.

Because of its location in the center of the fertile Po Valley, in north central Italy, the Emilia Romagna region has been the country’s foodie capital for centuries. Parma in particular, became the epicenter of this gastronomical powerhouse due to its production of world class and world famous eats. Most notably, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Prosciutto di Parma ham. Along with Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from nearby Modena, these products can only be made in this specific part of Italy, and therefore the world. And although you can find cheap imitations from other places, they are definitely not the same. Trust us.

As we pass through the last peaks of the Apennine Mountains, the landscape flattens and the road straightens. With only a day and a half in Parma, we head straight for the city center to meet with hotel partners and explore the city’s endless food shops, cafes, and the occasional historical monument. In addition to all the meat and cheese, Parma is home to an incredible 12th century cathedral and neighboring Baptistery, considered by many to be one of the best in Europe. While not a stranger to tourism, Parma is far less visited than Italy’s major cities, resulting in a local energy on the city streets. We stroll the pedestrian-only center, through one piazza after another, popping into a cafe for an afternoon caffe macchiato, and peering through pasta shop windows as locals prepare fresh tortelli, anolini and tagliatelle. Early evenings are all about aperitivi in Parma, and we snack on chunks of 30 month Parmigiano Reggiano drizzled with balsamic vinegar, fresh figs, green olives, and potato chips, while sipping Aperol Spritzes.

After a full day of walking, eating, and gawking at the amazing food, pastel piazzas and historic landmarks, we’re feeling very excited for our visit to Parma in next year’s Italian Origins small-group journey. It’s rare to find a small city with such cool energy, incredible food, and wonderful history. Parma, and the entire Emilia Romagna region has managed to stay wonderfully authentic over the years, shaping its own path and bending the arch of tourism toward its most important characteristics. In a city that feels real, with amazing regional food, history and lively energy, we’re counting the days until we return next September.

Travel with us to Parma!
Learn more about our Italian Origins small-group journey.

]]><![CDATA[Exploring Italian Origins in Lake Como]]>Thu, 10 Sep 2020 13:59:01 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/exploring-italian-origins-in-lake-comoThe beauty here is mesmerizing. One person after another sits and stares across the water’s surface. No phones, no distractions. Just gazing at the forested cliffs and colorful towns on the other side. It’s nice; peaceful even. This view is the kind that pulls you in, forces you to stop, makes you breathe a little deeper, and offers a little break from the current state of the world.

We’ve made the 4 hour drive north from Lucca, passing through the Apennine Mountains and the Emilia Romagna region, before arriving at the incredible Lake Como in Lombardy. We’re here to find the perfect hotel for the final stop on next year’s Italian Origins small group trip. Our three days here are jam-packed with meetings and hotel tours, and we constantly have to remind each other that we’re here for work - A not-so-easy task with views like these.

Since we moved to Italy, we’ve found that nearly every time we profess our love for Lake Como, our local friends and neighbors respond with a passionate preference for Lake Garda or Lake Maggiore. They tell us that Como is too expensive, too touristy, too posh. It’s true that out of all the lakes, Como has a history of drawing the rich and famous. Italian aristocrats have vacationed here since Roman times, when Pliny the Younger built the Comedia and the Tragedia resorts. Now, historic villas, ornate palaces and lush gardens span the shores of the lake, along with humble residences of people like George Clooney.

Okay, so it’s fancy. But there’s also a palpable peacefulness here. Maybe it has something to do with the sheer quantity of water, spanning 56 square miles and an astonishing 1,300 feet deep. Or perhaps it’s the gentle breeze that rolls off of the shore and through your hair. It feels like a place to sleep in, to soak in the sun from the deck of a boat, and to drink a Spritz at 3:00 pm. Some towns may be ritzy (ahem, Bellagio), but real, regular, non-famous people live here too and there are authentic experiences around every corner. All of these reasons combined make it the perfect relaxing destination to wrap up our 10-day group trip.

Our first stop is Villa Mojana, a beautifully restored historic villa located a few miles outside of Bellagio. Perched on the hillside above the lake, it offers epic views, a gorgeous infinity pool and cozy common spaces that offer all the feelings of home. After a quick ferry trip to Cadenabbia where we tour a prospective villa, we grab a late dinner and fall asleep in the delightfully plush bed. Breakfast the following morning offers a perfectly frothed cappuccino, lake views, yogurt from the local latteria and eggs to order, leaving us feeling both full and completely spoiled. Villa Mojana makes us think that we could really get used to this Como lifestyle.

Alas, with work to do, we hop on the next ferry to Varenna, a gorgeous village on the lake’s eastern shore. We were here in August 2018 and it’s just as enchanting as we remember, but with 1/10 of the people. With an arbor-covered walkway, narrow cobbled streets, and far more reasonable restaurant prices, it feels both laid back and luxurious at the same time. We visit the Hotel Royal Victoria, followed by Hotel Villa Cipressi - both exquisite - before taking a break in the villa’s botanical gardens.

Next, we meet up with Luca, the captain of a small fleet of traditional Venetian wooden taxi boats. We hop on board and he gives us a short tour around Varenna, pointing out a couple of famous villas along the way (including where John Legend filmed the All of Me music video). We work very hard to play it cool, like zooming around Lake Como on a gorgeous cloud-free day in a wooden speedboat like George Clooney is a normal thing for us. We likely fail, but leave with a great connection and an experience that will absolutely be included in next year’s small group trip.

Back in Bellagio, we stop for our almost daily gelato (not exaggerating) before dinner, because sometimes we like dessert first. It’s September so the melon gelato we’ve enjoyed all summer has been replaced with fig. These seasonal changes are so completely normal to Italians, but never fail to impress us.

Before leaving Lake Como, we drive to the highest point of Bellagio and take in the view. We’re on the peninsula on the “inverted Y” and can see all the way to the Swiss Alps. Steep forested cliffs, a result of the subtropical microclimate created from the lake’s surface, tumble down to the lake, reminding us more of Kauai’s north shore than one of the northernmost points in Italy. The air is fresh, clean and full of oxygen. This spot is truly one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever stood. And that’s why Pliny, and aristocrats, and movie stars have always come here. Because it’s mesmerizing, stunning, enchanting. It will be the perfect place to finish our trip next year. We know, because we already can’t wait to go back.

Travel with us to Lake Como as we explore beautiful villages, historic villas and cruise the lake on a traditional wooden boat, George Clooney style.
Learn more about our Italian Origins small-group journey.

]]><![CDATA[Exploring Italian Origins in Chianti]]>Tue, 18 Aug 2020 07:00:00 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/exploring-italian-origins-in-chiantiSkipping down the narrow, olive tree-lined road toward Greve, we can hardly contain this euphoric feeling. The sun is about to set over the endless rolling hills of Chianti and the golden hour light glows against the rows of vineyards that extend as far as the eye can see in either direction. These hills baked today, as the temperature rose to nearly 100 degrees fahrenheit, preparing the grapes for their inevitable September harvest. After a day of driving all around the region, meeting with hotels and agriturismos, the setting sun brings a welcomed respite.

Chianti is a hilly region in central Tuscany, historically regarded for its production of world renowned wines, simply called Chianti. To be labeled as such, the wine must contain at least 80% Sangiovese grapes, grown within the region. Although most of us hear Chianti and think of Hannibal Lecter and a side of fava beans, the region’s fame dates back thousands of years before The Silence of the Lambs. The Etruscans, before the Romans, cultivated vines here 2,500 years ago, working to develop hybrid grapes and experimenting with grafting methods. A couple of thousand years later, the first wines appeared in the 13th century, although the region itself wasn’t officially defined until 1716. In 1932, the regional lines were redrawn from just north of Siena to the foothills of Florence in the north, and one of the world’s most famous wine regions was born.

Since, the area has drawn visitors from all over the world who not only come for the wine, but also ancient Tuscan villages that are scattered over the region’s hilltops. From Greve in Chianti, to Castellina in Chianti and Radda in Chianti, many of the area’s towns have proudly taken on the regional name. While each Chianti Classico wine can vary significantly, they all hold the DOCG rating (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) the highest classification for Italian wines, and are recognized by the gallo nero (black rooster) sealon the bottle.

We could go on about the history of wine in this region and the importance it has with regard to Italian, and specifically Tuscan, traditions and culture. Most importantly though, the wine is absolutely delicious and the views, from every angle, are stunning.

After an early wake up we set off east toward Florence. In just over an hour we’re exiting the highway and traversing Chianti’s gently winding roads, passing vineyard after vineyard on our way to our first meeting of the day. We visit a quaint B&B and winery in a medieval hill town just outside of Castellina in Chianti, before seeing a beautiful farmhouse turned boutique hotel about 30 minutes north near Panzano. Both are incredible properties, with great history and authenticity, yet completely modern and comfortable accommodation. After lunch we drive up a steep country lane, two minutes from Greve in Chianti, to our final visit of the day and our home for the night, Borgo del Cabreo.

Opened in 2017 by the owners of Tenute Folonari, Borgo del Cabreo is a luxurious boutique wine hotel that’s so picturesque it feels like it was dropped from the sky onto its perfect hilltop location. Composed of just four buildings and 11 rooms, the property is a collection of ancient farm houses which have been meticulously renovated. After a dip in the panoramic pool, we spend an hour reading under the sun and gazing out at the quaint town of Montefioralle just a kilometer or so across the valley. We sip on Chardonnay with Michele, Cabreo’s welcoming manager, as we review the property details and learn more about the winery’s history. Not bad for a Friday afternoon meeting.

The next morning, after an excellent breakfast on the terrace, we stop at a nearby goat farm before going to a historic villa on the outskirts of Panzano. This traditional Italian property has all the feels, with ivy-covered stone walls, a restaurant in the old wine cellar, and terraced Italian garden. It’s the type of place that makes you feel as if you’ve suddenly gone back in time a few centuries.

When the midday sun strikes it’s time for us to jump in the car and head back to Lucca, but not before we’ve fallen in love again with Chianti. There are hundreds of incredible wine regions around the world, all with their own unique story to tell, but Chianti feels different. It’s romantic, seductive even, without even trying. The rising and falling hills covered in thick forests, ancient vines, and medieval castles, invoke a sense of place that’s rarely found elsewhere. The beauty makes your heart ache. It elicits inspiration. It evokes happiness. And what else could you ever ask for in a place?

Travel with us to Chianti Classico as we explore medieval hilltop towns and sleep in beautifully restored Tuscan farmhouses and working wineries.
Learn more about our Italian Origins small-group journey.

]]><![CDATA[Exploring Italian Origins in Florence]]>Wed, 05 Aug 2020 13:10:08 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/exploring-italian-origins-in-florenceMark Twain once described Florence as a “city of dreams.” We’re standing on the rooftop terrace of Antica Torre di via Tornabuoni 1, a medieval tower and boutique hotel dating back to the year 1200, and are completely on board with his assessment. Layers of red terracotta tiled roofs give way to ancient palaces, marble porticos, and the incredible Duomo of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. We’re completely aware that many people dream of seeing this view once in a lifetime and are filled with equal parts gratitude and awe at the beauty of the Tuscan capital. It’s these moments that remind us why we started Cohica - to share a slice of this magic with travelers - and over the next 48 hours, we’re on the hunt for the perfect Florentine hotel, rooftop restaurant and city guide for the first night of our Italian Origins small group trip.

Florence, or Firenze in Italian, is widely regarded as the birthplace of the Renaissance, a period in European history during the 15th and 16th centuries when the Middle Ages transitioned to the modern era. Often considered one of the world’s most beautiful cities, it draws visitors from all over, who come to soak up its history, art and culture. Just strolling around the ancient center is an experience, with open-air markets, giant piazzas, dozens of museums and galleries, some of the world’s most famous fashion houses, and architectural masterpieces around every corner. The River Arno divides the city and has been both a blessing (economically) and a curse (flooding) throughout history. There is a lot to see here, including the famous Ponte Vecchio - a covered bridge dating back to the 14th century and the city’s only bridge to have survived World War II intact. The Uffizi Gallery and Galleria dell'Accademia (which houses Michelangelo's David) are visited by thousands each day, as is the city’s gem, The Duomo, which 600 years after its completion, is still the largest dome built in brick and mortar in the world. Although nearly all of the sites are worthwhile, one of our favorite Florentine activities is to grab a (delicious, freshly made and cheap!) panino at All'antico Vinaio and a cup of wine and park it on the steps in front of Palazzo della Signoria to watch the world go by.

However, this trip to Florence includes a packed schedule without the time to people-watch on piazzas. After a short 50-minute drive from our home in Lucca, we arrive to 95 degrees and empty streets. Like many of the world’s most incredible places, the pandemic has done a number on tourism here resulting in a strangely empty, zombie-apocalypse-like version of the busy city we’re accustomed to. Locals are either avoiding the heat behind closed shutters, or (more likely) at the sea for much of July and August, contributing to the silence. We drop our bags and head off for our first of three hotel site inspections of the day.

Choosing the perfect hotel in Florence is no easy task. We have our favorites, the places we’ve stayed and where we’ve booked for clients, but our Italian Origins small group journey is different. We’re looking for a special place to spend the first night of the trip that welcomes the group to Italy and captures the beauty, art and culture of Florence. Over the next few hours, we meet with gracious Hotel Managers, moving from one room category to the next, jotting down notes and questions along the way.

With aching feet (it’s been a minute since Megan wore heels, let alone on cobblestone streets), we check in to the exquisite Antica Torre Via Tornabuoni 1, a historic mansion turned boutique hotel spread across the top floors of two medieval towers. Our suite, which we agree is one of the most beautifully appointed rooms we’ve ever slept in, has stunning views of the Arno and the Santa Trinita Bridge. We’re ready to move in. Later, we meet Martina, who shares the hotel’s history with passion, as we visit the other incredible rooms and suites. It’s interesting how much a person’s love and passion for something can add to the overall charm of a place, but Martina brings both and we begin to see the property through her eyes.

We get a little dressed up for dinner - we’re in the city after all - and head to the rooftop before crossing the river to the Santo Spirito neighborhood. This side of Florence has a different feel - a bit more neighborhoody and perhaps a tad less fashion-forward - and we’ve always been drawn to it. We settle on a little restaurant called Osteria dell'Enoteca, where we sip a delicious light red and obnoxiously only order an antipasti and a primi, skipping the secondi in true American fashion. If we were meat eaters, now would be the time to indulge in a famous Florentine steak, Bistecca alla Fiorentina. We decide to skip dessert, instead ducking into Gelateria Santa Trinita for a double cone a few minutes before they close. We find a spot on the side of the Santa Trinita Bridge, happily eating gelato and gazing at the lit up Ponte Vecchio. It’s one of those hot summer nights when people are out, the temperature is perfect, and the scenery is stunning. One of the best parts of traveling - when memories are made without even trying.

We awake to another stunning view (they seem to be everywhere here), and indulge in a fantastic rooftop breakfast. We love a good hotel breakfast and at the risk of sounding snobby, somewhat consider ourselves connoisseurs. This one is top notch with tons of high-quality local ingredients, figs on the fruit plate and real whipped cream. Before checking out, we take off for one last stroll around the quiet city. The ancient buildings surround us, exquisite in the level of detail and craftsmanship as you look more closely. The Duomo towers above, striped marble spanning for multiple city blocks. And everyday storefronts selling news, tobacco, gelato, and panini, are covered with dark wood and gold embellishments.

The truth is that writing about Florence doesn’t do it justice. The typical adjectives - remarkable, amazing, incredible - don't apply here. They're simply not enough to describe the feeling you get when gazing out on the rooftops or up at the Duomo. It seems that Twain was on to something - just being here is like a dream.

Travel with us to Florence as we uncover the unique food, culture and traditions of four distinct regions in Italy.
Learn more about Italian Origins small-group journey.

]]><![CDATA[Exploring Italian Origins in Le Cinque Terre]]>Wed, 29 Jul 2020 11:10:53 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/le-cinque-terreIt’s a hot sunny day in late July and we’re jumping in our trusty Fiat 500L for a short drive up the coast to the jaw-droppingly beautiful Cinque Terre. This will be one of five stops on our Italian Origins small-group journey, so we’re on our way to meet with hotel and activity partners in person. Over the years, we’ve gleaned two bits of wisdom - 1) reliable contacts that we know and trust are gold, and 2) the best way to ensure every travel detail is amazing is to experience it first-hand. We cross the green hills surrounding Lucca and head north, past Carrara and its mountains of glistening white marble, and into the terraced hillsides of Cinque Terre National Park.

Lemons in Monterosso al Mare, Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre - the five lands in Italian - is a collection of five small but wondrous towns that cascade down steep mountains to the sea in the crescent-shaped region of Liguria. These quaint little fishing villages date back nearly 1,000 years and while tourism has more than flourished in the past couple of decades, locals still hold onto centuries-old traditions. The region is where many of Italy’s most famous foods originated, including both focaccia and pesto. Basil, the most important ingredient in the sauce, thrives in Liguria’s coastal climate. Meanwhile, the steep hills that surround each of the villages are packed with beautiful terraced vineyards, lemon and olive groves. The DOC Cinque Terre white wine may not be as well known as other Italian varietals, but it’s fresh, crisp and pairs perfectly with the famous acciughe (anchovies) from Monterosso al Mare, the largest and northernmost town of the Cinque Terre. Nearly as famous as Monterosso’s anchovies are its lemons, which thrive in the coastal growing conditions and serve as the primary ingredient for Limoncino (Limencello’s northern cousin). In addition to the delicious local foods of the Cinque Terre, the National Park is full of scenic hiking trails that hug the mountainsides and descend into each of incredible towns on their way up the coast. The views from the trails are impossible to beat, as boats criss-cross the perfectly blue sea below.

After the hour and a half drive from Lucca, we check in to the adorable and welcoming Hotel Villa Steno, in the old town of Monterosso al Mare. We’re met in the lobby by the hotel’s owners, Matteo and Carla, who’ve owned and operated the hotel for 27 years and have graciously invited us to experience the property. Just a four minute walk from the beach, Hotel Villa Steno rests peacefully on the hillside at the edge of the town’s center. Surrounded by lemon groves and olive trees, with views of the sea from almost every angle, we quickly realize that it’s the ideal base for discovering the Cinque Terre. Matteo and Carla, whose kind and relaxed energy encapsulate the very best of Italian hospitality, share local insights and direct us to the town’s best eateries, gelaterias, and hidden spots.

After our conversation over Prosecco on the hotel’s panoramic terrace, we head into town to meet up with some old friends from Valencia who also happen to be in the area. We sit at a table just inside the cozy L’Osteria, next to the beautiful Gothic church, Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista, only two minutes from the hotel and another two to the sea. We sip on local wine and indulge in tasty local dishes, like Trofie (a short, twisted pasta from the region) al Pesto and Ravioli in salsa di noci, before taking a late evening passeggiata (stroll) along the seaside.

Monterosso al Mare beach in Cinque Terre

The next morning we awake to breakfast being delivered to our room and watch as boats cruise along the sea while we drink cappuccini under an olive tree on our private patio. We set off south, on a one and a half hour hike along the coast to the picturesque village of Vernazza, possibly Cinque Terre’s most famous town. Climbing old stone pathways through steep vineyards, traversing up and down the trail, we arrive to an incredible image of this ancient town. It’s little fishing harbor meets the main town square, an old stone church set directly on the water. Hot and sweaty, we jump off the old sea wall into the clear blue waters that lap up against it.

Hotel Villa Steno, Monterosso al Mare, Cinque Terre

View from hotel villa steno, Monterosso al Mare, Cinque Terre

In the afternoon we take the 12-minute train ride from Monterosso to Manarola, one of the smaller villages set between Riomaggiore (to the south) and Corniglia (to the north). Teenagers leap off cliffs into the water while vacationers sunbathe on the harbor’s smooth rocks. We check out Nessun Dorma, an uber popular cliffside bar, and it’s sister wine bar, Cantina, just up the hill. Sara, Cantina’s manager tells us all about the wine experiences they’ve recently started and the unique wines of the area. Back in Monterosso, we stroll the vineyards of Buranco Winery, a family-owned estate located in a hidden valley just a 5-minute walk from town. Among the vineyards, olive and lemon groves, Giovanni tells us about the history of the property and its wines.

The Cinque Terre has been a popular destination for travelers for decades, circulating through guidebooks and tagged all over social media. Our goal is to go beyond the beaches and the postcard perfect image of the five villages. We’re here to explore the unique traditions and wonderful local products that make this place so special. How its landscapes have shaped its people, and how those people have created such a rich cultural heritage that, in its essence, is unlike anywhere else in the world.

Travel with us as we uncover the unique food, culture and traditions of four distinct regions in Italy.
Learn more about Italian Origins small-group journey.

]]><![CDATA[Summer in Lucca & travel lost]]>Fri, 10 Jul 2020 11:15:46 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/summer-in-lucca-travel-lostSummer in Lucca came right on time. As if a switch were flipped, the solstice happened and one day later the sun showed up in full force, blasting down 87-degree days one after another. It’s beautiful in this part of Italy at this time of year, while the greenery, wildflowers, and other remnants of spring are still on display and the summer nights seem to last forever. Italy has successfully (so far, at least) emerged from one of the world’s strictest lockdowns and la bella vita once again surrounds us. Masks are commonplace (mandatory when in close proximity to other people), Italians are the least touchy they’ll probably ever be, and there is enough hand sanitizer to give every one of the world’s germaphobes a lifetime supply, but life is otherwise pretty normal. The country as a whole followed a long, closely monitored quarantine with a quite uniform reopening strategy and the numbers continue to look good. There are currently less than 14,000 total cases in Italy, with only 69 considered critical, and fewer than 200 new cases per day.

As the situation here has improved, we’ve watched as the U.S. and other countries have struggled to contain COVID-19. Travel has been massively impacted, with the EU’s recent reopening excluding Americans (for now, at least). And while people’s health and safety, especially those who are most vulnerable, should be all of our greatest concern at the moment, the impact of the virus can be felt in a myriad of ways. The travel industry has suffered immensely, along with the many amazing restaurants, shops, and small businesses that support and rely on tourism. Devastatingly, some of these businesses may not survive 2020. But in a year as impactful as this, we think it’s important to acknowledge another loss, one that may be less apparent.

The loss of travel is also a lost opportunity for more cultural understanding, self exploration, and an invaluable perspective to be gained. Because to truly travel is to open oneself to the magnificent differences, and similarities, of people, traditions, and histories of someplace new. The insights we take from experiences that pry us out of our comfort zones, away from the distractions of our daily lives, and into the world of someone else, can be genuinely transformative. After returning from a trip that challenges us, that inspires us, we are forever changed, even if ever so slightly.

In a recent interview with the Washington Post, long time Europe Travel Guru, Rick Steves, put it this way:

Travel is the best way to get to know your neighbor. If a community is going to function, you need to know and respect your neighbors, need to trust your neighbors. You need to collaborate and work together. That’s not just a community thing. Community is global now. That’s a scary thought for a lot of people, especially people who don’t travel, who are afraid of people who are different.

When you travel, you celebrate diversity. When you travel, you’re not afraid.

The most fearful people in our country are the people buried deep in the middle of it who have no passports. I’ve thought a lot about it lately, and fear is for people who don’t get out very much.

The flip side of fear is understanding, and we gain understanding when we travel. It’s pretty straightforward to me. And I just think that if everybody traveled, we would be a country that better understood certain realities that are confronting us. If everybody traveled, we would be able to celebrate diversity instead of being afraid of it.

(Well said, Rick.)

Since starting Cohica, we’ve been lucky enough to travel across the world, visiting dozens of countries in Asia, Africa, Europe, South and Central America. We’ve had long conversations with friends in Vietnam and Thailand, enjoyed meals with local partners in Peru, Ecuador, Guatemala, and El Salvador, and shared stories over drinks with the people we’ve met all over Europe. In each of these experiences we’ve come away with a similar understanding. That people and cultures are both beautifully unique and different and also so incredibly similar. It’s these similarities of the human experience that bridge the divides of language and culture, and allow us to learn about and appreciate the wonderfully distinct aspects of each of our lives. In all of this, it’s these moments that we miss the most and these moments that the world is missing.

So while much of this year’s travel opportunities may have been lost, there are innumerable ways to prepare for our next life-changing travel experience. Some suggestions from our friend, Rick:

Take this opportunity to hone your ability to appreciate different cultures. Get kids into art. Read something about Islam. Read something about the Renaissance….. It really gets you tuned in to better appreciating the travel spirit, and the actual travel experiences that await you when you’re ready to travel again.

So, like Rick, we’ll be spending much of the summer here in Italy, working on our Italian, boning up on our Roman history and Renaissance art, exploring and admiring diverse and spectacular landscapes, and soaking up as much of the culture and traditions as we possibly can. Travel will be back soon, better than ever (we think), and so greatly appreciated more than ever before.

]]><![CDATA[To all the places we've loved before: Amsterdam]]>Fri, 26 Jun 2020 10:40:24 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/to-all-the-places-weve-loved-before-amsterdamWatch where you step. Look both ways. And under no circumstances whatsoever, wander aimlessly into the bike path. If you do, there’s a good chance you’ll collide with a very fast, basket laden bicycle. Or, at a minimum, you’ll have a tall, beautiful, and perfectly multi-lingual Dutchman or woman ring a loud bell and politely shout to get the ‘f’ out of the way. Cycling is a cornerstone of the culture in Amsterdam - just as much as canals, museums and coffee shops - and thousands of bikes cruise around the city during every season and at every hour of the day. It’s just one of the things that makes this gorgeous, creative, liberal, historical, free-thinking city unlike anywhere else in the world.

It’s a bit hard to come to terms with the fact that we’re sitting in the urban center of a capital city. It’s late spring. We’re perched at an outdoor cafe table with a cold local microbrew, as the sun streams through giant, leafy trees and boats slowly glide by. Sounds of acoustic guitar flood from the nearby street corner which is lined with rows of brightly colored tulips - past their prime, but still remarkable. It’s downright peaceful and we could easily spend the next two days sitting in this very spot. But there’s far too much to do, see, and experience in Amsterdam, and with limited time, we’ve planned wisely.

First things first, we’ve registered for tickets to the Anne Frank House. This step is imperative to experience what both of us consider to be one of the most eye-opening and unique museums in the world, located in the actual house where Anne hid from the Nazis during the occupation of the Netherlands. Tickets must be purchased online (they are available two months in advance) for a specific time slot. The personal accounts of the harrowing and atrocious history that occured here, and across Europe, force us to think about the bravery, strength and incredible perseverance of so many individuals. It is, without a doubt, a must-visit. Unfortunately our time is limited and we don’t have time to explore the city’s other famous museums, but the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and the Moco Museum (to see the permanent Banksy exhibit) are at the top of our list for our next trip.

We check in to our room at Hotel Van de Vijsel, one of the many hip, design-forward boutique hotels in the city center. It’s located in a building that was used in the timber trade during the 19th century and is covered with planks of reclaimed wood, creating a trendy urban treehouse kinda feeling. Before the trip, we spent a ridiculous amount of time browsing hotel photo galleries and narrowing down options - there are just too many amazing and unique boutique luxury hotels to choose from here. (We’ve also booked clients at the Conscious Hotel Westerpark, just outside the Jordaan district). We’re rewarded with the location of our choice when we meander through a corner of the nearby 100-acre Vondelpark before dinner. Although it’s chilly, the late afternoon sun is shining and locals are laying flat on their backs on blankets. We have a laugh that Spaniards would be wearing turtlenecks and hats right about now and continue on.

It’s no surprise that Amsterdam also has an abundance of incredible restaurants, with various cuisines at every price point. Our list of restaurants is longer than our list of hotel considerations, so we select each meal carefully. We head in the direction of the trendy Jordaan District, which is home to many of the places on our list, including Long Pura - Indonesian led by a Balinese chef and Gs Jordaan, the place for a proper weekend brunch. We land on La Perla Pizzeria, which turns out to be the perfect relaxed locale to meet some friends who are visiting from Boston.

Parting ways after a delicious dinner of Neapolitan-style pizza and craft beer, we have a serious mid-30’s moment, debating heading back to the room for an early night (I mean, we’ve been traveling at a fast pace and are pretty tired), or going out on the town. We discuss. We argue both sides. And then we come to the realization that we’re here, in Amsterdam and frankly, we’re not too old to push through the tiredness and have a fun night. So, out we go. First stop, a local coffee shop for the quintessential Amsterdam experience. We smoke our joint on the bank of a canal, taking in our surroundings and feeling very cool and free before starting to laugh uncontrollably like tourists who can’t handle their weed. Suddenly we’re hungry again and head to a local supermarket for snacks and cold beers. It’s getting pretty late now as we wander the city center, sipping our beers along the way. Well past midnight, we wind up on the edge of the famous Red Light District, before turning back to the hotel to Google the average earnings and government benefits for local prostitutes. The buzz has faded, and as we discuss the pros and cons of legalized prostituttion, we find that we’re most certainly still in our mid(ish) 30’s. Damnit.

Not surprisingly, we wake up late the next morning, swinging by Koffie Academie for a rich, robust and decently sized cup of coffee before heading out to explore. Regrettably, we don’t make it to Foodhallen, located in a former Dutch train hall and selling every type of international street food you can imagine. However, before hopping on the train to the airport, we swing by Thrill Grill, a popular local burger joint with four locations in the city, for incredible salmon and falafel burgers that curb our hunger for the journey home.

Amsterdam is a unique city. A place where creativity rules, where art and design are being pushed to the max and where freedom and acceptance is unquestionably celebrated. It’s a place where nature effortlessly melds with an urban environment, with lazy canals and large parks utilized daily. A place that no matter where you’re from, how old or how young you are, whether you’re there for nightlife or museums, you belong. And that’s why we’re already counting the days until we can go back.

Experience the beautiful city of Amsterdam as well as Belgium's greatest breweries on our 11-day newly redesigned Designed Trip,
Amsterdam & Belgium: Canals, Craft, & Charm

]]><![CDATA[To all the places we've loved before: Andalucia]]>Fri, 19 Jun 2020 08:26:50 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/to-all-the-places-weve-loved-before-andaluciaNo where else in Spain is the influence of the country’s diverse history and converging cultures so apparent than in Andalucia. It’s a region many think of as traditionally Spanish, from Flamenco to bullfights, tapas to a vibrant late night culture. Around every corner, the combination of Moorish architecture with traditional Spanish buildings and plazas creates a unique sense of place. When you’re in Andalucia, you know it.

Located in the southern part of the peninsula, Andalucia is the most populous autonomous community in Spain. The name, Andalucia, is derived from the Arabic word Al-Andalus and dates back to 716, just after the Moors took over Spain by defeating the Visigoths. Historically an agricultural region, it’s home to some of the best olive oil in the world. It’s also the hottest region in Europe, with average summertime highs of 97 °F in Sevilla and Cordoba. No wonder Andalucians are known for their siestas.

We come here in the summer, so as we mention, it’s hot. Near the Portuguese border and just north of the Golfo de Cadiz, Sevilla is an elegant city that feels like an amalgamation of Spanish stereotypes. We arrive in the late afternoon, check in to our apartment in the Triana neighborhood along the west bank of the Guadalquivir River, and quickly get ready for a small-group Flamenco, food, and wine tour.

While strolling across the Puente de San Telmo, we learn about the historical significance of the Torre del Oro before finding ourselves at the Teatro Flamenco Triana, one of the city's most respected venues for traditional Flamenco. The performance is striking and unlike any other we've seen. It’s impossible to convey the depth of emotion and incredible range of expression that is traditional Flamenco. The rawness of the dancers, the skill of the guitarist, and the power of the singer combine to create something we’ve never seen before. It’s beautiful and emotional, and we fight to hold back tears as we walk out of the tablao.

With our local guide Javi, we continue through the hip Triana neighborhood in search of some of the area’s best tapas. The next few hours are spent drinking and eating, discovering new favorite tapas and wines, different from what we’re used to in Valencia. It’s informative, delicious, boozy, and exceptionally fun.

The next day, after a slow wake up thanks to a late night full of too much wine and beer, we visit the Royal Alcazar of Sevilla, a gorgeous and expansive palace with acres of gardens that take up a significant chunk of the city’s center. If not worth visiting for the sheer beauty and historical significance, the Alcazar also served as the location for a handful of scenes from Game of Thrones. Regardless of your reason for going, it's a must see. Afterwards, we indulge in a short siesta followed up by exploration and more tapas on one of the beautiful outdoor terraces of the quaint Santa Cruz district. Tomorrow we head off for Cordoba.

Following the Guadalquivir northeast, the city of Cordoba is another jewel of Andalucia, set along a hairpin curve in the river. Early in the morning we head to La Mezquita, a massive mosque that dates back to the 8th century and is considered to be one of the greatest accomplishments of Moorish architecture. The building was converted to a church by the Spanish after the reconquista in 1236 and now offers a fascinating mix of architectural styles and religious history. It’s an incredible architectural accomplishment and we spend nearly an hour walking through the 856 columns and horseshoe arches, discovering intricate details in every corner.

Stepping outside and just around the corner, the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos (Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs) and Puente Romano de Córdoba (Roman Bridge) offers a glimpse into the long and varied history of this city. After strolling across the bridge and wandering the Alcazar’s gardens, we stop by Bar Santos for what many consider to be the best Tortilla Española in all of Spain. Recommended by our good friend from Valencia, the tortilla here is unlike any other we’ve tried before. More than six inches tall, it looks more like a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano than an egg and potato tapa. The ambiance of the bar is nothing special, but our friend is right, the tortilla is delicious - likely the best we’ve ever had. We stand at the counter and agree that this is a prime example of our favorite type of travel experiences - authentic, off the tourist track, and based on local recommendations.

Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs, Cordoba

Road tripping through the region, we pass endless groves of olive trees and desolate, brown rolling hills before reaching Granada, at the foot of the Sierra Nevada. Winding up the narrow, cobblestone streets and past the whitewashed buildings of the Albaicin district, we’re certain we’re lost. The Moorish neighborhood dates back more than 1,000 years, and it’s easy to get turned around in this magical little part of the city. With a little help from Google Maps we find Plaza San Nicolas and it’s namesake viewpoint, Mirador San Nicolas for what might be the most spectacular view in all of Spain. From here the Alhambra is in full view, standing in all its majestic glory. Mightily perched above the city and sprawling across the top of the hillside, it’s Granada’s most important landmark. We wait until the following day to explore its ancient fortress, stunning palaces and never-ending gardens. It lives up to the hype and is completely mind blowing in its architecture, beauty and intricacy.

At night there’s only one thing to do in Granada - eat tapas. The last city in Spain to continue the tradition of free tapas, there are dozens of exceptional tapas bars, many of which serve their own specialty dishes. Just buy a caña (small beer) or a glass of wine and wait for the bartender to bring your tapa plate. You don’t get to choose here, as the bars rotate through various dishes throughout the night, so be ready and willing to dive in to what’s fresh.

There’s a lot we miss about Spain. Andalucia in particular, with its diverse history, unmistakable architecture, excellent food, and warm, welcoming people, is easily one of our favorite regions (right after Valencia and the Balearic Islands). We’ve found ourselves daydreaming about it as of late. Imagining the mosaic-tiled palaces, narrow, curving streets, tasty tapas and cold beers on warm terraces, relaxing siestas, and late night adventures. A place we’ll always love. We can’t wait to go back.

Experience the remarkable region of Andalucia on our 9-day newly redesigned Designed Trip, Spain: Tapas, Traditions, & Hilltop towns.

]]><![CDATA[To all the places we've loved before: Scotland]]>Wed, 10 Jun 2020 13:32:37 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/to-all-the-places-weve-loved-before-scotlandThe Scottish Rail rolls east, passing flocks of fluffy white sheep. We throw out guesses of how many we’ve passed (500? 1,000?) - an unwinnable game. Somehow, the passing hills are illuminated by the muted grey sky, creating an Emerald city-like green glow. We take a sip of whisky (that’s whisky, not whiskey, and certainly not scotch) from a test-tube size dram, both because it’s weirdly cold outside for being spring and because that’s what you do here. Scotland is all about feeling cozy and, even when the rest of the world is wearing shorts, we’re 100% here for it.

Our first trip to Scotland is in April for a long weekend getaway from the antithetical desert of Valencia. Immediately, we’re awestruck by the beauty of the lush, dew-glistened landscape after leaving the dry, brown, albeit sunny, Spanish coast. After a quick stop in Glasgow (certainly worth more than a quick stop), we continue to the capital city.

Edinburgh has been on our Travel Wishlist for awhile, and although it can get quite full with tourists, it offers amazing history, culture and a beautiful cobbled old town. We stroll up the Royal Mile, popping into a Scottish wool shop to pick up a cozy Tartan blanket, all the way to Edinburgh Castle before grabbing a pint and a loaded jacket potato in a cozy pub. Just outside the city center, Arthur’s Seat, an extinct volcano and cluster of hills, beckons when we wake up to sunshine the next morning. After climbing to the top, we’re rewarded with panoramic city and Firth of Forth views. There is absolutely no better way to earn the full Scottish breakfast, buttery biscuit and all.

One of Scotland's best gifts to visitors is the free admission to any of its incredible museums, such as the National Gallery and National Museum. We highly recommend an evening walking tour to learn about the scandals, legends and ghosts that have, over centuries, been woven into the fabric of the city’s rich history. The copious amount of rain helps to make the Botanical Gardens worth a stop as well. For a memorable dinner (or a cozy refined brunch), pop in The Little Chartroom, a wee restaurant that will make you rethink your preconception of Scottish cuisine. While a pint in a local pub is absolutely mandatory, the taproom at Brew Dog, a now-famous brewery that originated just up the coast in Aberdeen, is a fun and lively spot to canoodle with local professionals who stop in for an after work beer.

We return to Valencia with the complete knowledge that visiting Scotland and only experiencing the city is not the full picture of what this country is all about. So, when we’re invited to celebrate the marriage of our wonderful friends two years later, at a castle (yes, an actual castle) in the Scottish countryside, we reply with an immediate Ay.

On our second trip, we brave the left side of the road, carefully navigating roundabouts from the Edinburgh airport to the nearby Royal Burgh of Culross. We’re here to visit a mate who we met when filming Househunters International a couple years back. Strolling the original cobbled streets, past historic white-harled houses with slate rooftops we learn that the tiny burgh (population somewhere around 400) is nearly perfectly preserved as it was in the 16th and 17th centuries. On the edge of the River Forth, it’s incredibly picturesque and defines the term “quaint.” Culross also happens to be one of the main filming locations for Outlander, if you’re into that.

After lunch and a few laughs, we make our way to the castle where the wedding will take place, just south of Aberdeen. This region is known for castles, turns out, and they seem to be everywhere. On the slightly foggy (okay, hungover) day after the wedding, we drive to the seaside Dunnottar Castle. Located on a rocky peninsula with trails winding up to the ancient ruins dating back to the 4th century, it is nothing short of magnificent. We don’t have time to check out other castles in the area, but if we did, we’d highly consider stops at Craigievar Castle, Castle Fraser, Tolquhon Castle, and Fyvie Castle, to name a few.

Instead, we hop in the car and continue driving through the countryside - pure magic, with narrow lanes passing through tunnels of trees and tiny villages filled with stone houses. We tuck into a beautiful little countryside B&B, and after a soak in the clawfoot tub and a shortbread cookie or two, we fall asleep to the sound of rain on the slate roof.

When in Scotland, one must drink whisky, and after a little veggie hash and bubbles and squeak, we stop by The Glenturret Distillery for a tour. Even if you’re not a drinker, the history and process of producing and distilling whisky here is fascinating - a cornerstone of the culture. Distilleries can be found all over the country and most offer inexpensive or free tours and tastings.

As we pack our suitcases, we agree that this wee country is the perfect travel destination. Across one small area, it offers a bit of everything - cool cities with great restaurants, culture, history, as well as beautiful countryside with green landscapes, quaint villages and wonderful people. There’s a good chance that we might be in love. And that’s not just the whisky talking.

Interested in exploring the best of Scotland? Check out our 8-day redesigned Designed Trip to Edinburugh, Inverness, Loch Ness & The Highlands.

]]><![CDATA[To all the places we've loved before: Lucca]]>Thu, 28 May 2020 15:32:06 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/to-all-the-places-weve-loved-before-luccaThe hills and mountains surrounding the valley have suddenly turned a brighter and deeper shade of green. The sky has also shifted, from muted greys with subtle blue hues, to a spectacular baby blue scattered with pillows of bright white clouds. The green fields are now strewn with the reds and yellows of wildflowers that have shot up from the fertile ground below. Spring came with a force in Lucca, our home of just six months, and after two months in quarantine we’re reminded of the multitude of reasons we chose to settle down in this little city in the northwest corner of Tuscany.

Our first time visiting Lucca together was just a few days after our wedding in October 2016. On our way from Siena to the Ligurian Coast, for a short stay in the seaside village of Santa Margherita Ligure, we stopped to spend the afternoon in the walled city. We’d both been here before separately, but the city felt especially magical in the afterglow of our Tuscan nuptials.

As with pretty much all of Italy, Lucca is also replete with history and charm. Dating back to the Etruscans and with Roman influences throughout, its pride and joy continues to be the completely intact renaissance walls which surround the old city. Initially built as defensive ramparts, they’re now a pedestrian area, covered in trees, and dotted with gardens, cafes and restaurants. The Passeggiata delle Mura Urbane, as it’s called in Italian, is where residents go to cycle, run, or just take a stroll.

The city’s appeal is both instant and lasting. Set at the far end of a flat plain, with the Apuan Alps just to the north and the Tyrrhenian Sea a short drive west, Lucca has all the feels of a typical Tuscan town with narrow, cobblestone streets and terracotta tile roofs. It has a sense of Florence, but smaller and without the neverending sea of tourists. In fact, it’s hard to say that it’s even a city at all, or rather just a large town. Yet Lucca is home to an incredible cuisine, unique to this part of Tuscany, and countless restaurants, bars, and cafes. Not to mention the Lucca Summer Festival, a music fest that hosts a number of big-name acts each year. For us, it’s this combination of dichotomous characteristics that makes Lucca such an intriguing place.

Living here entails much of the same leisurely activities as a visit. We spend our weekends cycling to the old city center, atop the ancient walls, and along the Serchio River. And if you thought eating a massive amount of pizza, pasta, and gelato were just shallow Italian stereotypes, think again. We’ve always been connoisseurs, but our time here has only intensified our passions for each of these delicious foods. We particularly enjoy Funiculì (for amazing Napoletana-style pizza), In Pasta - Cibo e Convivio (for fresh pasta in a friendly and casual environment), and Cremeria Opera (for life-changing gelato with flavors like lemon basil). The city is surrounded by incredible wineries as well, with some especially good wines coming out of the historic, hilltop town of Montecarlo, just a few miles east of Lucca.

Whether it’s for an afternoon stopover or an entire week, no trip to Lucca is complete without seeing the charming Piazza dell’Anfiteatro (which sits atop the ruins of a 2nd century Roman amphitheatre), climbing to the oak tree-covered top of the 14th century Torre Guinigi, visiting the Puccini Museum (born in Lucca in 1858), and of course, cycling around the walls and simply getting lost among the city’s maze of narrow streets.

It took us a few years of reminiscing about a magical afternoon in October, as well as four quick trips in 2019 to make this incredible little city our permanent home. As we look forward to many more years to come in this town, we’ll undoubtedly share more about this amazing place we’ve loved before and are falling in love with all over again.

]]><![CDATA[To all the places we've loved before: Hoi An]]>Wed, 20 May 2020 11:14:23 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/to-all-the-places-weve-loved-before-hoi-anIn the hour before sunset, the rice fields are magic. The golden light bounces off each long blade of grass, creating the illusion of soft waves in an emerald green ocean. Dragonflies swoop dramatically as farmers tilt their nón lá (leaf hats) off their head, no longer needing the shelter from the sun. Just five minutes away, the delightful chaos of Vietnamese motorbikes weave through ancient streets past vine-covered yellow buildings. The traditional market, alive with towering piles of fresh herbs, baskets of live crabs, bricks of white tofu and mounds of fresh noodles, flanks the side of the Thu Bồn River. It’s not difficult to fall in love here.

We first visited Hoi An in 2015 during our life-altering trip around the world. We were younger then, although maybe not young enough to justify some of the methods of travel required to stretch our travel budget for almost a year, and arrived in an exhausted daze after taking an overnight bus from the beach town of Nha Trang over 300 miles south. Since, the historic riverside town has been widely praised as one of Vietnam’s must-visit destinations and when we returned in early February 2020, we found that it has, in fact 'caught on.' There’s a noticeable increase of foot and motorbike traffic, but with notoriety comes benefits, and amazing hotels, new restaurants and authentic activities with professional local guides are now abundant.

A quick google search will tell you that Hoi An’s ancient town is well worth a wander. The town’s placement, just five miles from the sea alongside the Thu Bồn River, historically made it a well-known trading port, drawing settlers from China, Japan, India, Portugal, the Netherlands, and of course, France. With architecture dating back to the 15th century, the ancient town is beautifully preserved and includes everything from wooden Chinese shophouses to colorful colonial buildings, as well as the famous Japanese covered bridge.

Souvenir shops aside, many of the historic buildings are home to custom tailors. Dating back to the silk route and passed down through generations, the art of tailoring can be found in more than 200 custom shops throughout the small city. Like magic, anything from a pair of custom shoes, to a ballgown, a leather jacket or a three-piece suit can be expertly crafted from reams of fabric in every quality, color and print imaginable.

We dip a toe in the shopping scene with a pair of custom-made sandals but, as usual, opt for more cultural and food driven activities during our recent visit. Highly recommended - a bicycle tour of the river’s surrounding small towns and countryside. On a leisurely ride, you’ll pedal along paths, learning about the local life and farming along the way. (Choose the afternoon ride and you’ll finish cruising through the aforementioned rice fields at sunset). A local food tour or cooking class with a visit to the central market should also be on every agenda. Hoi An is a foodie town, with incredible restaurants serving high-quality and locally sourced central Vietnamese cuisine. Each dish expertly balances five elements for health and well-being: sweet, sour, salty, bitter and hot. The cuisine is considered one of the world's healthiest, and after spending a couple weeks in Vietnam, we both notice feeling less full and more energized.

During our week in Hoi An, every meal is an event. Each day, we carefully consult our long list of favorite restaurants, choosing a lunch and dinner option so as not to miss out on the city’s best food. Although there is a fair share of western and European cuisine, stick with Vietnamese and you won’t be disappointed. Swing by the nondescript Banh Mi Chay stand, which is usually parked just outside of the ancient town, for a vegetarian sandwich expertly layered with various toppings like cucumber, tofu, cilantro, carrot, various sauces, and crushed peanuts on a freshly baked baguette. Bonus - it’ll cost you $0.65. A short bike ride out of the ancient town is well worth the effort for both Rom Bistro and Am Vegetarian. Order the Cao lầu - Hoi An's specialty dish - at either for greens, bean sprouts and fresh herbs on a bed of noodles made from rice that has been soaked in lye water for a unique chewy texture. If you’re looking for a slightly elevated option, Nu Eatery is a must - both the grilled pineapple and shallot salad and lemongrass ice cream prove to be just as good now as they were five years ago.

We’d fantasized about coming back to Hoi An for years and were worried it might not live up to our lofty expectations. But after a week of sipping strong Vietnamese coffee, cycling through busy streets, eating incredible food, meeting up with old friends and making new contacts for our Designed Trip, we find our love rekindled. There are some places in the world that are unlike anywhere else but have all of the ingredients - food, culture, history, people - for the perfect travel experience. This is one of those places. We step on the plane already planning our next trip back, and loving Hoi An more than we ever have before.

Experience the magic that is Hoi An in our 10-day redesigned Designed Trip: Vietnam: Rice Paddies, Local Eats & Bustling Streets.
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Also check out this National Geographic guide to Ha Long Bay, where Cohica Founder Megan shares why kayaking the bay is an absolute must.

Cohica Travel founders Megan and Ryan in Hoi An Vietnam

]]><![CDATA[To all the places we've loved before: Porto]]>Mon, 11 May 2020 08:24:34 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/to-all-the-places-weve-loved-before-porto-portugalThe colorful, tiled buildings of Porto’s Ribeira neighborhood stand at attention, greeting the mighty Douro River as it passes through the city on it’s way east to the Atlantic. Ribeira’s cobblestone streets are packed with restaurants, small bars, and traditional shops, but it’s the Dom Luis I Bridge that crests high above the Douro and steals the show.

We fell in love with Porto nearly the moment we arrived. Groggy from an early morning flight, we stumbled past the Capela das Almas de Santa Catarina, with its intricate blue and white mosaic-tiled facade, as we huffed and puffed up the city’s hilly streets and were immediately awestruck. As with Lisbon, Portugal’s larger, capital city to the south, almost all of Porto’s sturdy stone buildings are beautifully presented, with brightly colored tiles, and curved windows with intricate wrought iron balconies.

It’s hard not to reminisce about San Francisco as you walk through Porto, with all of its hills, surprising vistas, and impressive bridges. We explored the city with some of our best mates, who flew down from London for a quick, early autumn getaway. Passing the Palácio da Bolsa and Sé do Porto on our way across the river to Vila Nova de Gaia and its many wineries, we watch in amazement as young locals rile crowds in anticipation for spectacular high dives off the Luis Bridge. A word of warning, the waiting and showmanship are impressive, but the jumps are fleeting and easy to miss.

When in Porto, one must drink Port. So continue along the waterfront of the city’s south banks and stop at one of the dozens of incredible Port lodges that line its streets. Swing by the Portuguese family-owned Ferreira, nearby Churchill Graham, or Croft Port just up the hill. After touring and tasting at one of these producers, we recommend making your way back to Baixa and the city center, where Sao Bento train station is definitely worth a visit, along with Igreja dos Clerigos, and Livraria Lello, if you’re up for waiting in line. Porto’s restaurant scene is thriving, with everything from local, inexpensive sandwich shops to Michelin-star dining. If you’re into the latter, check out Pedro Lemos where the food is grounded in the traditions of Portuguese cooking, with simple dishes that utilize quality ingredients to reflect the country’s culinary heritage. O Comercial, located in the city’s stock exchange, has a relaxed yet sophisticated vibe and uses modern cooking techniques to elevate some of the region’s freshest produce. If you’re interested in trying Porto’s classic sandwich, the francesinha, Bufete Fase might be the best place in the city to get it.

After plenty of eating, we spent an evening drinking some shockingly good local microbrew at Letraria Craft Beer Garden in the Bolhao neighborhood. What looks like a small craft beer bar from the street is actually much, much more. Head down the back stairs and you’ll find an expansive, nearly hidden garden in the middle of the city, with a long list of excellent beers brewed here in Porto. Breakfast and a bloody mary the next morning at Zenith Brunch & Cocktails is the perfect way to recover from one too many IPAs.

Aside from the obvious, it’s hard to pinpoint exactly what makes Porto such a compelling city. Maybe it’s the hipster vibes, the sea winds coming off the Atlantic combined with the warm Portuguese sun, or the friendly, welcoming Portuguese themselves with their unique grasp of the English language stemming from childhoods full of undubbed American television and movies. Or it could be that the city still has an authentic feeling. Even with the tourist crowds, there’s a sense here that not too long ago, Porto was relatively untouched, existing on its own, without the Port-bottle keychains and mosaic-tiled magnets. Whatever it is, it’s special. And that’s why it’s the first on our list of places we didn’t get the chance to write about before. Or as we like to call them, the places we’ve loved before.

...Or maybe it’s just the port.

If you’re ready to be swept away by the beauty, culture, and authentic nature of Porto, check out our Designed Trip, Portugal: Cobbled City Streets & Vineyard Covered Valleys.

]]><![CDATA[Italian Life in Lockdown]]>Thu, 30 Apr 2020 14:04:01 GMThttps://www.cohicatravel.com/blog/italian-life-in-lockdownIt was early February. We were sitting in a bar in Hoi An, Vietnam, sipping a bloody mary, watching the superbowl without a care in the world, other than the 49ers defense. It was mid-way through our five week trip through Southeast Asia, where we were meeting activity partners and visiting boutique hotels to include in our Custom and Designed Trips. We were gearing up for a very busy 2020 - travel felt accessible and adventure was calling.

The week before, we had read about Coronavirus, but it wasn’t a reality until a couple days later, when we met our friend Nhi for a coffee. She owns a boutique hotel in Hoi An and said that they were seeing a spike in cancellations as China and South Korea started to restrict travel. The potential effect that loss in tourism could have on small businesses and communities started to feel real. As the trip continued, the concern about the virus in Southeast Asia grew. We began wearing masks on the plane and in Ho Chi Minh City, Kuala Lumpur and Colombo, we passed through temperature checks at customs. Still, the number of cases outside of China was relatively low and we happily continued our adventures through Sri Lanka, hand sanitizing along the way.

Soon after we arrived home to Lucca, Italy, we learned that the virus was spreading in the region of Lombardy, just a few hours north. Within a few days, social distancing measures were implemented and the pasta (not toilet paper!) aisle at the grocery store was empty. But for the next two weeks, life generally felt pretty normal. People were out and about, drinking cappuccinos at bar counters and cycling around the Lucca walls. In the background, the virus must have been spreading south because before we knew it, we were locked down.

The lockdown restrictions in Italy were super strict right out of the gate. We were not permitted to leave our house unless to go to the supermarket or the pharmacy, and only one person could go at a time. We were allowed to walk outside, but only 200 meters from home. Without warning, everything was closed. No more cappuccinos, no takeout food, no Amazon deliveries, niente. It was an abrupt change and a big adjustment, but we were (and continue to be) happy that the government took such decisive action early on, especially as we watched the virus spread and the death toll rise in our new home country.

During our first week of lockdown, videos circulated of people singing and playing music from their balconies. Every morning we walked past signs reading “andra tutto bene” - it will all be okay - hanging in our neighborhood windows. We started going to the supermarket every 7-10 days, stocking up in true American style, after waiting in an eerily quiet line for over an hour and getting temperature checked before entering the store. It was all very zombie-apocalypse like, lacking the joyful (and loud) Italian greetings we’d come to appreciate.

Our work came to a rolling stop, once trips were sadly rescheduled. We did our best to stay motivated, using the time to work on projects and develop strategic plans for the rest of the year. We redesigned all 15 of our Designed Trips, implemented a new booking policy and started planning Guided Trips that we hope to lead in 2021. It was a roller coaster of emotion - there were days we felt isolated and missed our family and friends. Days when our hearts ached for the world. And days when we felt a real sense of sadness for the time and growth of our business lost. But we also started to feel more at home in our new house. We took some time to do things we might not otherwise do. We tried new recipes, studied Italian (and attempted to chat with the neighbors), started a daily yoga practice, grew cilantro seeds, binged some Netflix, and made a music video for our nephew's 10th birthday. We started to feel more comfortable here, and when a neighbor arrived home after over a month in the hospital with the virus, we joined the applause and impromptu dance party at the end of our driveway.

And now, after 50 days in lockdown, we’re starting to feel hope. Each day the numbers across Europe are improving. We’re seeing leaders roll out plans to reopen, and some countries already successfully enjoying life post quarantine (shout-out to our friends in Denmark - we’re right behind you!). Next week in Italy, restaurants will open for take-away, parks will be accessible, and we’ll be able to freely drive and exercise. Hopping on our bikes to ride to the center for a gelato will feel nothing short of amazing.

Spring has sprung in Tuscany and our semi-rural neighborhood is full of vegetable gardens, olive groves and fields of yellow mustard seed flowers. There’s a palpable hope in the air. And we think - we hope - that travel and exploration, even if it looks a little different at first, will follow soon.

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