​Five years ago, newly engaged, with a newly incorporated business and a shiny new Italian passport in hand, we packed up six suitcases and boarded a one-way flight to Spain. Through a combination of adventurous spirit and complete naivete, we landed in Valencia, a city we’d visited once before, for less than a week. Three and a half years later (clearly haven forgotten how hard the first year in a new country was), we moved again, to our now home in Lucca, Italy. 

​It’s officially December and 2020 is almost over. After nearly six months of relative normalcy, Italy returned to various states of lockdown a month ago. The strict quarantine measures of March and April precluded extremely low COVID numbers throughout the course of the summer, allowing us to travel across four different regions, meeting with partners and visiting hotels in preparation for our Italian Origins small group trip next fall. In September, we flew to the Greek Isles and spent a week hiking and swimming all over the tiny island of Symi and discovering the thickly layered history of Rhodes. It was an amazing trip and we’re thankful that Italy, and Europe’s, serious response to the pandemic in those early months allowed us the opportunity to travel a bit this year. 

​But here we are again. A second wave has swept over Europe and Italy has once again responded with significant measures. We started as a Zona Gialla (yellow zone) in early November - the lowest in severity of Italy’s three-tier zone system - but became a Zona Arancia (orange zone) within a week, and then a Zona Rossa (red zone) just a few days later. ​

​Lively and bustling streets criss-cross Parma’s Romanesque architecture and pastel-hued buildings. Its status as a university city is to thank for this, but we’re not here for class. No, we’re here for the food. 

Because of its location in the center of the fertile Po Valley, in north central Italy, the Emilia Romagna region has been the country’s foodie capital for centuries. Parma in particular, became the epicenter of this gastronomical powerhouse due to its production of world class and world famous eats. Most notably, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Prosciutto di Parma ham. Along with Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from nearby Modena, these products can only be made in this specific part of Italy, and therefore the world. And although you can find cheap imitations from other places, they are definitely not the same. Trust us. 

The beauty here is mesmerizing. One person after another sits and stares across the water’s surface. No phones, no distractions. Just gazing at the forested cliffs and colorful towns on the other side. It’s nice; peaceful even. This view is the kind that pulls you in, forces you to stop, makes you breathe a little deeper, and offers a little break from the current state of the world.

We’ve made the 4 hour drive north from Lucca, passing through the Apennine Mountains and the Emilia Romagna region, before arriving at the incredible Lake Como in Lombardy. We’re here to find the perfect hotel for the final stop on next year’s Italian Origins small group trip. Our three days here are jam-packed with meetings and hotel tours, and we constantly have to remind each other that we’re here for work - A not-so-easy task with views like these.

​Skipping down the narrow, olive tree-lined road toward Greve, we can hardly contain this euphoric feeling. The sun is about to set over the endless rolling hills of Chianti and the golden hour light glows against the rows of vineyards that extend as far as the eye can see in either direction. These hills baked today, as the temperature rose to nearly 100 degrees fahrenheit, preparing the grapes for their inevitable September harvest. After a day of driving all around the region, meeting with hotels and agriturismos, the setting sun brings a welcomed respite. 

Mark Twain once described Florence as a “city of dreams.” We’re standing on the rooftop terrace of Antica Torre di via Tornabuoni 1, a medieval tower and boutique hotel dating back to the year 1200, and are completely on board with his assessment. Layers of red terracotta tiled roofs give way to ancient palaces, marble porticos, and the incredible Duomo of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. We’re completely aware that many people dream of seeing this view once in a lifetime and are filled with equal parts gratitude and awe at the beauty of the Tuscan capital. It’s these moments that remind us why we started Cohica - to share a slice of this magic with travelers - and over the next 48 hours, we’re on the hunt for the perfect Florentine hotel, rooftop restaurant and city guide for the first night of our Italian Origins small group trip. 

It’s a hot sunny day in late July and we’re jumping in our trusty Fiat 500L for a short drive up the coast to the jaw-droppingly beautiful Cinque Terre. This will be one of five stops on our Italian Origins small-group journey, so we’re on our way to meet with hotel and activity partners in person. Over the years, we’ve gleaned two bits of wisdom - 1) reliable contacts that we know and trust are gold, and 2) the best way to ensure every travel detail is amazing is to experience it first-hand. We cross the green hills surrounding Lucca and head north, past Carrara and its mountains of glistening white marble, and into the terraced hillsides of Cinque Terre National Park.

​The hills and mountains surrounding the valley have suddenly turned a brighter and deeper shade of green. The sky has also shifted, from muted greys with subtle blue hues, to a spectacular baby blue scattered with pillows of bright white clouds. The green fields are now strewn with the reds and yellows of wildflowers that have shot up from the fertile ground below. Spring came with a force in Lucca, our home of just six months, and after two months in quarantine we’re reminded of the multitude of reasons we chose to settle down in this little city in the northwest corner of Tuscany. 

​For many of us, coffee is more than just a drink. It's the life blood that wakes us up, gives us the energy to get dressed in the morning, and make it to work each day. Without it, our mornings (and afternoons) would be a lot slower, our minds a lot foggier, and our ideas, probably, a lot duller. Let's face it, coffee is the best drug of all. It's legal, does magical things, and is fully maintainable on a daily, or even twice daily (3x?) level.

​So if you're a coffee aficionado like we are and you'd like to experience the way the rest of the world consumes this incredible drink, then read on. See how local cultures, climate, and economies impact the world's best brews and get inspired to get out there and experience it for yourself!

At the beginning of each year, we sit down together and start planning our travels for the next 12 months. It's become somewhat of a ritual for us - discussing our trips from the previous year, dreaming up vacations for the year to come, and deciding how exactly we'll make these adventures happen. 

Our European road trip continues! We're driving from Lake Como, through Barolo, to a tiny town called Mombasiglio in Italy's Piedmont Region. It's the prefect peaceful retreat to take a travel time out, drink a healthy amount of wine and discuss the alleged "Road of Love."
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Next up, Provence, France and back to our home country of Spain. If you haven't subscribed to our YouTube Channel for updates on all our latest videos, now's the time (just click "subscribe")!

Our European road trip continues through the Swiss Alps to Lake Como, Italy where we talk about how to see the best scenery and score the best deals: 

Do you ever fall in love with a place then, when it comes to planning your next trip, struggle with the decision of returning or exploring somewhere new? This is a constant conversation in our house. We always want to explore the world and experience new cultures, but then there are those memories - sharing a bottle of red wine on warm stone steps overlooking ancient Rome; jumping off a 20-foot cliff into the clear water and swimming to the next cove to do it all over again; hiking along the narrow ridge of a volcanic crater surrounded by wild hydrangeas with the ocean on one side and a lake on the other - that we just want to go back and do all over again. 

​It was mid April. We were cruising along an uninspiring stretch of the I-5, on our way home from an impromptu trip to Santa Barbara and Palm Springs where we escaped for sun, wine, and as it turns out, a surprise marriage proposal. As official new “fiances,” we were doing what most couples do: talking about our life together (which included a move to Spain four weeks later), and, naturally, a wedding. As firm believers in the importance of experiences over things, there was never a question that we wanted to gather our family and friends together for a kickass party. It was just a matter of where, when, and how it would all come together. Below are the details of how we pulled off our wedding (and the most amazing week of our lives)  in a 17th century Italian villa.

​Ahhh, the New Year. A time to reflect on all that was the previous year and compensate with resolutions for the year ahead.

We’re firm believers in living big - making bold moves, no matter how risky they feel in order to create the life we want to live. So, we’re wrapping up 2016 with nothing but love! After all, we got to spend time with both of our families in California and Colorado, drove the entire West Coast from LA to Vancouver, moved to Spain and have started to learn Spanish, evolved our website to a real, money-making (not much, but still) business, got married in a Tuscan villa, and spent the holidays in Germany and Belgium. No complaints here. ​

A few days ago, we were walking down our street in the El Carmen neighborhood of historical Valencia, Spain and found ourselves stopped in front of this door. It's one of many, incredible, unique, and MASSIVE doors that we walk past every day but rarely pause to appreciate. We started thinking of all the cool doors we've come across over the past 18 months. Evidently we have a thing for doors because we've stopped and photographed them all over the world. They say when one door closes, another one opens. We're not sure how that applies here, but these are 29 of the best, most beautiful doors we've found, in no particular order. 

Nestled between the massive Lago di Maggiore and much smaller Lago Varese, on the side of a mountain and within a forested nature park, is the tiny town of Cerro, our home base for the week. Barely qualifying for the title "town," Cerro consists of a handful of ancient buildings, a church (with a very enthusiastic bell ringer), and a gang of pre-teen Italian boys that cruise the narrow streets on their bicycles each night. A large sign at the town's parking lot (the streets are too narrow for most cars to drive through) reveals that its location within the Campo Di Fiore nature park also makes it the starting point for multiple trails that twist through the mountains behind. 

We’ve read that Lake Maggiore is where the Italians holiday, and serves as a beautiful, less costly alternative to the famed (thanks a lot, Clooney), Lake Como. As the second largest lake in Northern Italy, it’s long and narrow, extending about 40 miles south to north and just 6 miles across, all the way up into Switzerland. However, after a few days in Cerro, we learn that it’s not just the lakes that make this region special; it’s the peace and calm of the mountains, the mild climate and slow and relaxed vibe of the towns that fit in between. 

Northern Italy’s lake region is made up of many lakes of many different sizes. Each one is surrounded by tall lush mountains and dotted with small towns and villages that spill down hillsides to the water’s edge. The climate is mild (the annual average temperature is 60 degrees) and lakeside residents enjoy 2300 hours of sunshine a year. When we visit in late July, summertime at the lake is in full force, with people boating, waterskiing, fishing and eating every meal al fresco. 

The flat we've rented for the week sits within a gated garden, up a short flight of wooden stairs. It has a spacious kitchen and an upstairs loft with shutters that open to a mountain view. It’s quiet, peaceful and the perfect place for a week of lake life, Italian style. Non-stop travel can be tiring and after nearly four months, we’ve really started to appreciate the stops that don’t include a lengthy sightseeing list. Instead, we relish in the lack of agenda, sleeping in, running the mountain trails, cooking dinners, sipping wine and eating gelato by the lake. 

Life at the lake is perfect. A cozy retreat made up of rainy mornings, a lot of time in the forest and a few lakeside dinners out. We celebrate our first anniversary together and reflect on the last year, proud in what we’ve accomplished and resolved that we’re exactly where we want to be. It’s difficult to leave what could only be described as a perfect vacation, but we’re trading pasta for potatoes and wine for beer as we pack our bags for our sixth country: Germany.  

Although our stint in Bologna is short and sweet, it doesn’t take long to get a feel for this Northern Italian epicenter of food and culture. We eat, we wander, we drink, we picnic, and after less than a week in, we collectively declare that Bologna is the coolest city in Italy. Now, we definitely don't take that statement lightly and neither should you. Which is why we have plenty of evidence to back it up. So if you’re ready to have your mind blown with Italian awesomeness, please, read on.

Porticoes
At the beginning of the 12th century, nearly 40 kilometers of porticoes (roof structures built over walkways and held up by columns) were built throughout the city to support the recent population growth spurred by the newly founded University of Bologna. Not only are these porticoes very cool to look at (tall archways in various colors and heights), they’re also incredibly practical. Shielding residents from rain in the winter and the blistering summer sun, portico lined streets are a beautiful symbol of this unique city.

The food
Close proximity to Parma (Parmigiano Reggiano), Modena (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar), and Tuscany (um, wine!), means that Bologna is essentially surrounded by the world’s best ingredients. And the city’s food scene might just utilize that bounty of riches, as well as many other flavors, better than anywhere else in Italy. From fancy white table cloth restaurants, to modern and innovative eateries, to the most mouthwatering takeaway fresh pasta you’ve ever had, the options for amazing food are limitless.

Summer movie nights
One of our single best experiences was joining thousands of people spread out among the church steps, chairs and cafe tables of Piazza Maggiore at midnight in the center of Bologna to watch Grand Budapest Hotel under the stars. Every single night throughout the three months of summer the echoes of classic films played on a massive screen in the historic piazza creates a feeling that's impossible to replicate. (Oh, and did we mention it’s free?).

Aperitivos
Aperitivos, a northern Italian tradition, are spectacular in Bologna. Similar to the Spanish tapa but enjoyed before dinner, aperitivos are drinks served with an assortment of free snacks. Sometimes this means green olives and potato chips, while other bars and restaurants may include pizza, focaccia and even more elaborate bites. The fact that they're so commonly shared in the fading sunlight of a beautiful piazza in Bologna, puts this drink/snack combo over the top.

Bolognina
Bologna is so cool, one of the neighborhoods just outside the city center is named Bolognina. It’s like Bologna’s younger sister, looking up to it’s cool older sibling, desperately wanting to hang out with the big kids. But seriously, it’s an awesome multicultural neighborhood with a totally local feel that’s worth checking out. It’s also where we rented an awesome flat through AirBnB.

Asinelli, the tallest tower in Italy
Standing 97.2 meters high (that’s just under 319 feet) is Asinelli tower, the tallest in Italy, looking proudly over the rest of the city. Built in the 12th century, it was once one of hundreds of towers representing the wealthiest families of Bologna. For only a few euros you can climb the winding wood (sometimes tilted) stairway to the top for an incredible view of the city.

Unlike the rest of Italy, it doesn’t cost more to drink your cappuccino at a table
Sitting down to enjoy a cappuccino in most Italian cities will cost you, but not in Bologna. Here you can enjoy this beautifully foamy drink at a cafe table for the same price you’d pay at the counter. Cutting out the (pricey) service fee charged almost everywhere else just adds to this amazingly pleasant experience.

The oldest university in the world
Founded in 1088, the University of Bologna is the oldest university in the world, which is pretty rad. With over 80,000 students, it has a major influence on Bologna’s young and vibrant culture.

Correttos
Now, to be honest, we were completely unaware of Caffe Correttos before arriving in Bologna and have since learned that they are available in other places too. But we discovered them in Bologna so they make the list. What, you ask, happens with a caffe corretto? Booze happens. That’s right, you get a nice little shot of liquor on top of that creamy espresso (for practically the same price). A lot of people go with Grappa, but we recommend sambuca, which we’ve quickly became addicted to. Just imagine a black licorice and espresso jelly belly combo and you get the idea. 

We’re still not sure why Bologna hasn’t made it on the Venice-Florence-Rome Italian city circuit and to be honest, we’re a bit hesitant to spread the word. It’s slightly less traveled, a lot less touristy, and a really amazing choice for a cool Italian city vacation. Just promise you won’t tell your friends.

In case you aren't convinced, here's more proof...

The sun beats down on bone dry river beds and golden hills roll past as if on conveyor belts. Driving past rows of grapevines, the landscape starts to feel familiar. There’s this thing that happens when traveling for awhile, when you need a few seconds to figure out where you are, what day it is and where you need to go next. Here in Toscana (Tuscany as we call it), this process takes a bit longer. It looks like home, it feels like home, but it’s most certainly not Northern California. Here’s why:

1. Tuscany is full of beautiful golden hills, just like Northern California. But take a closer look and you’ll notice ancient castles on top of nearly every hill.
   
2. It’s not uncommon to be passed by a red Ferrari when driving through the winding Tuscan roads (a bit different than a blue Prius in NorCal).
   
3. Tuscany and Northern California are both known for amazing wine. But in Tuscany, they’ve been making the stuff since the 8th century… BC!
   
4. Northern California is home to some pretty awesome small towns. But in Tuscany, medieval hill towns like Siena, Montepulciano, and San Gimignano (all of which are surrounded by ancient stone walls) are the norm.
   
5. Italian Cypress trees line every villa driveway in Tuscany. This kind of real estate would cost millions in NorCal!
   
6. Like happiness in concentrate, fields of sunflowers surround country roads in Tuscany. Who do we have to talk to bring sunflower farms to Sonoma?
   
7. Dating back to the 17th century, the bareback Palio di Siena horse race is held twice a year in the Piazza del Campo. There’s really nothing like it.
   
8. We could live on cheese from Sonoma Cheese Factory. But our mind was blown with the discovery of the Tuscany Mozzarellaria: Literally, cheese shops that make every kind of fresh mozzarella imaginable (including Burrata di Bufala).
   
9. Go wine tasting in Tuscany and it will take you 4 hours, not 15 minutes (pros and cons to both)!
   
10. Traffic never stops in Tuscany, because driving along the country roads means navigating hundreds of roundabouts.

This is not to say Northern California isn’t awesome (it most certainly is!), but more to note how incredibly unique this region of Italy is. Life moves slowly in Tuscany and many of these towns feel trapped in time. We’re spending 5 days here, but had we not booked an apartment in the next stop (Bologna) on our Italian road trip, it could have easily turned into months. Because it really is like a movie - hang out, drink coffee, eat incredible food, sit in the sun, drink wine. Repeat, repeat, repeat.

Looking down at our “map” (phone), we’re walking in the direction of a large, green square in the city center, hoping to find a park to lay down a blanket for our first picnic (of many, it turns out) in Italy. We walk quickly up Quirinal Hill, comparing the incline to that of Mason or Taylor Street in San Francisco (a common conversation on the way up a steep hill) until we reach the top of the  highest of Rome’s seven hills. Looking around for the green square, we soon realize that the park is actually a huge garden tucked safely within the walls of the Palazzo del Quirinale, a 27 acre complex that serves as one of the three homes of Italy’s President. (We later learn that the palace, which is 25 times the size of the White House, has also been home to 30 Popes, four kings, and 12 presidents). While there is no park, there is a beautiful piazza, and an incredible view of the city. We’ve learned that the perfect spot isn’t always what we originally envision and agree that in this moment, our first night in Europe, this is where we’re meant to be. We lay our blanket on the palace stairs, pull out our homemade caprese sandwiches (fresh mozzarella, basil, tomatoes, olive oil and a pinch of sea salt on fresh baked ciabatta), and open our 2 euro bottle of wine. As the sun starts to set beyond the Vatican, the tiled rooftops of Rome turn pink. It’s the perfect welcome to Italy and we end up sitting on the stairs drinking wine until dark, before heading down to Trevi fountain for two scoops of gelato.

It’s easy to see the sights of Rome, even without seeking them out. And that’s the magic of this place - the beauty is in the form of a surprise attack. Around every street corner, a classic building or ancient ruin pops up out of nowhere. Still, there are downfalls to being the ninth most visited city in the world. At the center, the crowds are thick, everything is overpriced, and the experience feels less than authentic. On our third day, we make the typical tourist mistake of bringing our cappuccinos to an outside table (like we do in our neighborhood) only to be shuffled back inside and told that the prices outside are different (inflated) for table service. It’s the afternoon and we know that ordering our caps after 10am is already a faux paux, but it’s one we’re willing to make in exchange for this perfect Italian creation. 

Our time in Rome is nothing spectacular and spectacular all the same. We walk and walk, and ...walk. We people watch. And every single day, we drink coffee, picnic, eat gelato and drink wine. Life is good here, and it feels like a well-deserved respite after the lost in translation experience of much of Southeast Asia. On our last day, we pick up our little red Fiat Panda, which we will drive north, slowly making our way to Italy’s lake region (with stops in Tuscany [Montepulciano, Siena, Chianti], Bologna, Modena, and Parma along the way). We completely acknowledge the fact that this - the next few weeks in our grand adventure - is a vacation that many people dream about. And you better believe that we’re relishing every second.